I love Bali. I love it so much I got married on a cliff in Uluwatu, a couple of years ago. But joining more than four million other tourists touching down in Bali each year means walking the streets of Seminyak, with its trendy cafes and hipster crowds feels a little like being back in Bondi. So, it might be time to take a closer look at some of Indonesia’s 17,500 other islands. That’s exactly what our group of travel writers was invited to do thanks to the Indonesian Ministry for Tourism. Our trip took us on a whirlwind discovery tour of two beautiful emerging tourist destinations; Sulawesi and Maluku.
Locals girls climb the wall to the site of the Waruga stones, curious to meet us. North Sulawesi, Indonesia. Image © Skye Gilkeson
North Sulawesi
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Manado
Our tour of Sulawesi began in Manado (pronounced Ma’nado), the capital of North Sulawesi. We found ourselves hit by a wall of thick, sticky air as we stepped through the doors of Sam Ratulangi Airport. The humidity was quickly forgotten thanks to an impromptu performance by a local man, his smile wide and infectious as he sang for our growing group. Shuffling on to a coach we began the steep climb inland, up the mountains to the Minahasa Highlands.
I found myself transfixed on the changing landscape through the window. We drove away from the main roads of Manado with its closely set houses, painted in a palette of pastels and topped with rusting corrugated roofs. Soon green flushed the countryside from every corner as we passed fish farms, fruit orchards and fields of rice paddies with farmers covered head to toe to protect them from the harsh sun. The distance between the houses grew; they were simple wooden structures with the same grooved roofs and the jungle cover creeping ever closer to each.
Carvings on the waruga share the story of the person passed; their livelihood and the way their body was laid to rest. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Waruga Sawangan
The 40-minute drive from the airport flew and we soon arrived in Sawangan village, home to a Minahasan ancient burial site and the Waruga stone sarcophagi. The stones appeared to battle with the brilliant green grass of the graveyard, some barely visible. Used by the Minahasans since the megalithic age, the stones feature a box-shaped lower portion, topped by a triangular piece of stone. The carvings are unique to each and share the story of the person passed; how they lived, their livelihood and the way their body was placed when it was laid to rest. 144 clans are represented at this particular burial site. The mood of the visit was eased by a group of curious locals from the village, keen to watch us at work. About 7 years old, two girls climbed the fence, happily posing for pictures. They giggled confidently, retreated behind their hands and revealed themselves once again with another grin, as their confidence grew.
Where: Located in Sawangan Village, 40 minutes from the airport or Manado city
Contact: Anton from North Sulawesi Tourism can guide you around the site.
Cost: Entry is Rp10, 000 ($AUD1) per person. The guided tour is negotiable.
Friendly local family in Sawangan Village, North Sulawesi, Indonesia. Image © Skye Gilkeson
The colours of the burial site at Sawangan Village, North Sulawesi. Image © Skye Gilkeson
From my window seat: A family plays volleyball on a makeshift court in the Minahasa Highlands, North Sulawesi, Indonesia. Image © Skye Gilkeson
From my window seat: A simple home in the Minahasa Highlands, North Sulawesi. Image © Skye Gilkeson
From my window seat: A boy flies a kite in a quiet street in the Minahasa Highlands, North Sulawesi. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Lake Tondano sits 600 metres above sea level in the village of Remboken. It’s the perfect place to stop for a picturesque lunch. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Lake Tondano
We soon reached Lake Tondano. The caldera lake and North Sulawesi’s largest, sits 600 metres above sea level and covers about 4,278 hectares, in the village of Remboken. Stepping off into the slightly cooler mountain air we walked the bamboo stilted walkway to lunch at Astomi Restaurant. The open-air bamboo building sat over the water and served local cuisine with a panoramic view of the lake and the surrounding mountains (Lembena, Kaweng, Tampusu and Masarang). The glassy surface of the water created a perfect reflection of the sky and the clouds above. The beautiful image was only disrupted by passing boats and dense patches of weed swaying gently with the current. We ate grilled Nike fish, corn fritters (Bakwan Jagung), stir fried and steamed vegetables and spicy sambal.
Where: Remboken village, 30 kilometres from Manado.
Cost: Touring the lake by boat is about Rp 50, 000 (about $AUD5). Lunch will vary depending how hungry you are (cash only).
Grilled Nike fish at Astomi Restaurant on Lake Tondano, North Sulawesi, Indonesia. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Bakwan Jagung, a traditional Indonesian side dish at Astomi Restaurant on Lake Tondano. Image © Skye Gilkeson
