Ambon Island in Maluku was the final stop in our action packed Indonesia itinerary and there were some wonderful surprises in store for us when we arrived in Maluku’s capital. Diving in Ambon is world-renowned and the stunning Ambon diving sites draw divers from around the world. But, we found there is even more to Ambon than its reputation as a diving destination. From cultural shows, to historic sights, stunning scenery and plenty of local characters, there is a raw charm to Ambon, Indonesia. For the intrepid, it might be time to put Indonesia’s Spice Islands on your list before the Bali crowd discovers the untouched beauty of destinations like Maluku.
One of the drummer boys walks the sea wall following his performance on Namalatu Beach, Ambon, Maluku. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Arriving in Ambon
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I was still clouded by a pre-caffeine haze when we landed in Ambon, Indonesia in the early hours of the morning. Climbing into the back seat of a four-wheel drive, in convoy to Ambon town from the airport, I found myself surrounded by Hello Kitty and Sponge Bob decorations. Suddenly, I was singing top-40 hits with two fellow travel writers and our guides, Wiwin and Riski. We giggled and danced all the way to breakfast. It was one of those fun, quirky travel moments that still makes me laugh today.
During that journey, I took advantage of my window seat and the anonymity the tinted glass afforded me to watch the people caught up in the buzz on the city streets. Scooters, lime green bemos and becaks all fought for room on the road amid the morning crush. Seemingly unaware of the chaos around him, a man strolled down the side of the road carrying two large cane baskets full of birds; a woman riding side-saddle on the back of a bike caught me through the glass and gave me a coy smile; and I became mesmerised by an elderly woman perched on the steps of a convenience store, methodically stacking pieces of fruit for sale.
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A becak driver passes us as we wait in traffic in Ambon town. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Woman washing clothes in the shallows at Namalatu Beach, Ambon. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Things to do in Ambon
Namalatu Beach
Namalatu Beach has a rugged beauty about it. A palm fringed white sandy stretch, a solo sea wall and clear waters make the protected bay a popular spot for snorkelling, but we were there for something entirely different; a performance of a traditional Ambon dance, the Saureka-reka dance – framed by the backdrop of the Banda Sea.
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Sahureka-reka dancer dressed in beautiful batik traditional dress. Image © Skye Gilkeson
A group of local dancers performing on picturesque Namalatu Beach, Ambon. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Saureka-Reka: A Traditional Ambon Dance
The Saureka-Reka is a traditional dance from the Maluku Islands, performed by boys and girls. The group of boys split off; a few played the tifa (drums of different sizes) and the Totobuang (a collection of small gongs set up a little like a xylophone), while others held the gaba-gaba (a long piece of wood from a sago palm tree), placing the pieces horizontally with the group and tapping them in time. The girls jump and dance, aiming to avoid the gaba gaba.
It reminded me a little of playing elastics in the playground when I was in primary school. However, this dance has a much greater significance. It’s said the dance was first performed by sago farmers during the harvest to celebrate friendship. It was also later used as a way to unify the farming and town communities.
In another part of the performance the girls held small, hour-glass shaped drums and created beautifully choreographed shapes to the music using their hands and feet. An orchestra of young conch players soon sat in front of us dressed in rich red costumes, blowing the shells, and tapping a small drum.
This unique Ambon dance was one of the highlights of our short time here. The boys and girls performing for us took their job very seriously; they appeared to be proud to be sharing a part of their culture with us. After the performance, they each took out their mobile phones, snapping selfies with us and exploring the rock wall still dressed in their costumes, just like kids back home would after a concert. Today, performances like these are only put on for special events, cultural festivals and for visitors like us.
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A mini conch shell orchestra plays for us at Namalatu Beach, Ambon, Maluku. Image © Skye Gilkeson
One of the Sahureka reka dancers takes some time out from the crowd following their performance at Namalatu Beach. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Namalatu Beach
Where: Namalatu Beach, Maluku is near Latuhalat village, about 30 minutes drive from Ambon town.
Cost: Entry to the beach is about Rp 5,000 (about $AUD0.50).
Contact: All information and tour bookings for Ambon can be made with Haical at Ilmi Tour.
A private Sahureka reka performance can be arranged with advanced notice for about Rp 4,000,000 (around $AUD400) for a group (minimum 10 people).
The Merah Putih Bridge crossing Ambon Bay in Ambon. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Ambon Town
Ambon has a rich and colourful history that is profoundly linked to a number of countries around the world, including Australia. There are a number of historic monuments around Ambon town that are worth adding to your sightseeing list if you have time during your stay.
Martha Christina Tiahahu Memorial
The Martha Christina Tiahahu memorial is a must-see. Tiahahu was a female Moluccan freedom fighter from the 19th century who fought the Dutch alongside her father. After she was captured by the Dutch, she went on a hunger strike and sadly, she passed away at just 18 years of age but she is still considered a national heroine. The statue sits at the top of the hill at Karang Panjang in a beautiful little park with a panoramic view of the city down to blue Amboina Bay.
Where: The Martha Christina Tiahahu memorial is on Karang Panjang hill.
Cost: Entry by donation
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