We met under the clock at Stockmann department store in the Helsinki city centre. The spot is a common meeting place for locals. A friendly smile followed by a familiar Aussie twang and we made some brief introductions with Heather, our guide for our Helsinki food tour. Heather is originally from Tasmania, Australia but has called Helsinki home for more than 14 years. It soon became clear she knows Helsinki’s history and the culinary scene as well, if not better than any Helsinki-born local. We loved our delicious walking tour tasting the must-try food in Helsinki.
Perusing fresh produce at Market Square, Helsinki. Image © Skye Gilkeson
A culinary introduction to food in Helsinki
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Our first stop on our Helsinki food tour was an unexpected one; the food hall at Stockmann, on the lower level of the department store.
Stockmann
It’s there Heather showed us the basics of the typical Finnish weekly shop.
From heavy rye bread to Karelian pasties (a traditional Finnish dish made with a rye base and filled with rice or other fillings), Muikkukukko (bread filled with small smoked whitefish) to the prepackaged horse and reindeer meat (we’re told both are only eaten on occasion).
Of course, there are staples we would expect in any supermarket like fresh fruit and vegetables and a small organic foods section.
Our first tasting for the day felt appropriately fishy, given we were in a part of the world famous for its fishing waters.
We tried prawns and salmon with a hint of dill. It was a great way to whet the palate for two people who often start the day with fresh salmon, as we do.
Sliced horse meat for sale in the Stockmann Food Hall, Helsinki. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Tasting of fresh prawns, salmon with dill in the Stockmann Food Hall, Helsinki. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Alko
Like its Scandinavian neighbours, the Finnish government controls the sale of alcohol, so it’s not as easy as heading to your local liquor shop or convenience store to pick up a bottle of wine.
The Finnish have to buy their alcohol from Alko and it comes at a heavier cost than you might be used to.
We wandered through the immaculately ordered Alko store in the city centre.
It was great to see some Australian wines on the shelves (albeit at very high prices) and to have a little break from food before we rolled on to lunch.
Rosemary sausage with mustard and sauerkraut at Bryggeri Helsinki. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Helsinki Bryggeri
A brewery seemed an appropriate lunch stop in our list of must-try food in Helsinki.
We found ourselves sitting in a beautifully sunny beer garden at Helsinki Bryggeri . A rosemary sausage with sauerkraut, mustard and a flight of local craft beers? Yes, please!
We worked our way through the board of beers with the help of the breweries tasting notes.
A flight of delicious local beers at Bryggeri Helsinki. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Vanha Kauppahalli
Vanha Kauppahalli, the Old Market Hall first opened its doors in 1889.
The facade looks as it would have all those years ago, but inside no doubt, the choice is much more varied. Whatever your stomach desires, you can find it in the Old Food Hall.
Cheese platter on the run from Juustokauppa Tuula Paalanen. Image © Skye Gilkeson
We tried a few local kinds of cheese served with cloudberries from Juustokauppa Tuula Paalanen as we wandered past all the beautiful stalls. Colourful displays jumped out at us as we passed.
There were fresh produce displays, fish stalls, vegan and vegetarian food, organic options, chocolate indulgence and a very popular soup store and tins of canned elk, reindeer and bear for those in the market.
Chocolate heaven at PetriS Chocolate Room in the Old Market Hall, Helsinki. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Tinned bear, elk and reindeer meat for sale at the Old Market Hall, Helsinki. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Smoked fish aplenty from Kalakauppa E. Eriksson at the Old Market Hall, Helsinki. Image © Skye Gilkeson