When you’re crossing an iconic historical site off your travel bucket list, it can sometimes feel like you’re taking the road exhausted by millions of tourists. This is particularly the case when you’re visiting the largest religious site in the world. So, when we planned our trip to Siem Reap and the ancient kingdom, we chose an Angkor Wat bike tour instead. It was the perfect way to visit Angkot Wat without the crowds.
Sunrise over Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Angkor Wat Bike Tour
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Waking up at 4.30 am isn’t often that appealing. But when you’re going to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat, it quickly becomes the most exciting time of day. For us, it was also made much easier when our tour guide collected us from the front door of our hotel to deliver us directly to the gates.
Samchhay from Grasshopper Adventures was leading us on our sunrise Angkor Wat bike tour. He seemed as excited as we were when he was giving us the rundown (that’s not something you always get from tour guides. We loved his enthusiasm). Samchhay gave us the option to choose our own adventure; from a shorter, road-based ride up to a longer off-road ride between each temple. We wanted a good adventure and a bit of a workout so opted for a 22km ride through the bush (the longest option). If you’re not super fit, you’ll probably still be comfortable doing a 10km ride. The route is safe and pretty flat, so you’re not doing the Tour de Angkor, don’t worry.
We arrived at the ticket office just as the sun was coming up and lined up with the rest of the early morning crowds. Tickets are $US20 per day (or $US40 for 3 days). If you aren’t keen to line up, I highly recommend buying your tickets the night before. They go on sale between 5-5.30pm and you can even go and catch the sunset while you’re around.
Angkor Wat, Cambodia. All images © Skye Gilkeson
Sunrise at Angkor Wat
Walking up to the walled moat surrounding Angkor, we joined the other early risers to claim a spot to watch the sun climb. It was one of the most stunning sights I’ve ever seen and one of those moments that reminds me of why I love to travel so much. Despite the crowd, it was completely quiet (except for flashes and shutter snaps) as the group just sat, absorbed by the moment.
Samchhay led us across the bridge to enter the World Heritage-listed Angkor Archaeological Park. It’s most famous temple, Angkor Wat has just been named the best landmark in the world. Walking around the grounds, we see why it has had such an impact on visitors for so many years. Remembering that construction on the temple began in the 12th Century, the sheer size of the structure and its significance as both a religious and historical site hits as we climb through the towering stone doorways. Stepping out the other side, we follow the crowd across the grass to the famous temple. 8,000 tourists walk the path to Angkor Wat each day in peak season. Off-season still draws about 4,000 per day.
Hawkers sell breakfast, guide books and paintings near the entrance to the temple (if you are going to grab a guide-book expect to pay about $US10. A painting will be anywhere from $US50. Paying any more than that could be paying too much, but that’s entirely up to you.
Even if you don’t take a tour, I absolutely recommend getting a guide. There is so much ground to cover, both physically and historically and we found Samchhay’s knowledge (as well as his command of English) impressive.
The stairs to Angkor Wat, Cambodia. All images © Skye Gilkeson
The Hubby exploring Angkor Wat, Cambodia. All images © Skye Gilkeson
Carvings tell the stories of the Khmer Empire, Angkor Wat, Cambodia. All images © Skye Gilkeson
Paint remnants remain in Angkor Wat, Cambodia. All images © Skye Gilkeson
Angkor Wat, Cambodia. All images © Skye Gilkeson
Acid worn columns in Angkor Wat, Cambodia. All images © Skye Gilkeson
We scaled the steep stairs to the temple doors and weaved our way through the ancient corridors scarred by hand-carved pictures carrying on Angkor’s mythological history. Faded remnants of the paint that once coloured the walls cling to a few columns and corners.
Generally, the temple is a palate of greys brushed by weather and age. Sadly, some columns have had their ankles eaten away; a devastating result of failed experimental cleaning with acid.
Considering the age and the tourist traffic the site gets it is in pretty good condition; a testament to the work and sacrifice it took to complete it (between the 12th to 16th centuries).
View from the top-level of Angkor Wat, Cambodia. All images © Skye Gilkeson
The best vantage point from the temple is from the top-level. You will need to be fully covered to climb to the top though (a scarf won’t do). Men and women are required to wear at least a t-shirt and long pants. Both are cheap to purchase at the markets in Siem Reap if you haven’t packed appropriately.
The stairs to the top-level open at about 7.30 am and only 100 visitors are allowed up at a time, so get to the stairs early and line up. You won’t want to be waiting in that sun for too long. The stairs are incredibly steep too so some may find the ascent difficult. The view is rewarding though, with a clear line back down over the grounds towards the city walls.
