The driver handed us cold hand towels, fresh cookies, a bottle of water and told us there was wifi in the shuttle for the short drive from the airport. From that moment, we knew our stay at Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao in Luang Prabang was going to be a standout experience.
Iced hibiscus tea and cold towels on check-in – Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao, Luang Prabang. Image © Skye Gilkeson
La Residence Phou Vao
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We wound our way down the hotel’s beautiful treelined driveway with individual tea light candles nestled into holes in a low brick wall at either side, creating a twinkling trail to the hotel foyer. Staff were quick to greet us and usher us to a sitting area, where we were presented with more cool towels and a signature hibiscus iced tea.
The resort’s white washed and dark wood colonial-style buildings fan out to either side of the reception area, taking full advantage of the hotel’s hill-top location. Seated comfortably in its private leafy surrounds, La Residence Phou Vao sits admiring the small town below and the brooding mountains beyond. The communal area centres around the gorgeous freshwater infinity pool with it’s mountain views. There are also a number of cosy alfresco sitting areas dotted around the grounds, where you can work via wifi, read a book or simply enjoy the tranquility of the setting.
There are Garden View, Mountain View and Mountain and Pool View Suites. The Mountain and Pool view suites have the most expansive view of the hotel and surrounds. That’s the room to book if you can. They are very popular with honeymooners for obvious reasons.
Doc Champa Bar, Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao, Luang Prabang, Laos. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Peace and quiet in the gardens, Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao, Luang Prabang, Laos. Image © Skye Gilkeson
A warm welcome. Sunset over the mountains. Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao, Luang Prabang, Laos. Image © Skye Gilkeson
The Junior Suite at Belmond Luang Prabang
It was this twilight mountain view that was waiting when we settled into our Junior Suite – the sky flushed with pastel pinks and peaches, a subtle silhouette in the distance. Rosewood features made the suite feel warm, while crisp white linens, carefully decorated with fresh cut bougainvillea from the garden was just a small sign of the considered, luxury feel nurtured at the hotel. A king bed sat alongside a sitting area, leading on to the balcony. A gorgeous bathroom with an inviting freeform tub looks out on to the outdoor lounge area for two. Lush natural body products are provided as well as plush robes and plenty of thick white towels creating a truly indulgent and calm oasis from the Laotian heat.
Mountain View Suite bedroom – Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao, Luang Prabang, Laos. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Rich, natural body products, Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao, Luang Prabang, Laos. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Mountain View Suite bathroom, Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao, Luang Prabang, Laos. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Covered outdoor lounge area with mountain view, Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao, Luang Prabang, Laos. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Personalised welcome letter and fruit basket. Image © Skye Gilkeson
The room has all of those features you’d expect from a five-star luxury hotel – from satellite TV to wifi and a Krump coffee unit with unlimited coffee pods. But it’s the personal touches that were the real highlights for me; a nightly turn-down service, including a note on the forecast for the following day, the mosquito net put in place, slippers laid out and fresh-baked cookies for a midnight or early morning snack.
Phou Savanh Restaurant, Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao, Luang Prabang, Laos. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Phou Savanh
Hunger led us, quite literally, up the garden path to dinner at the hotel restaurant, Phou Savanh. It’s not often you’re staying at a hotel which also houses the best restaurant in town. The menu featuring Laotian cuisine with a French touch is talked about, not only by guests, but it’s known as the restaurant in Luang Prabang where you take someone to spoil them. It’s that delicious.
Taking a seat on the outdoor patio overlooking the hotel pool, the surrounding area was illuminated by lanterns and candle light and with only a couple of other guests dining at either end of the restaurant, we felt like we had the place to ourselves. That suited us perfectly as we were visiting Luang Prabang for our first wedding anniversary, so it was the perfect way to start a romantic few days.
It was our first Laotian tasting and the food was incredible. The highlights were the steamed fish cooked in banana leaf with steamed vegetables and a rich, sweet Laotian beef stew. We really appreciated the chef, Wally coming out to check on our meal after dinner, too.
For those looking to ramp up the romance, the hotel offers an extremely indulgent and private Five Hundred Candle Dinner.
