I had pored over photos of Komodo National Park long before I was invited to see it in person. So when I received an invitation from the Indonesian Ministry for Tourism to explore Flores along with Jakarta, Bali and Bintan Island, I grabbed the opportunity with both hands. Since returning from the whirlwind trip around Wonderful Indonesia, it’s our Komodo National Park tour that sits with me most; for its brilliant blue water, fine sand beaches, hauntingly quiet Komodo Island and the vibrant villagers we met along the way.
A Komodo National Park tour offers more than a close encounter with their famous dragons. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Komodo National Park Tour
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Labuan Bajo: The Port to Paradise
From the moment we arrived in Labuan Bajo, I knew Flores would be one of those destinations that would make an impact on me. I was glued to the window, the glass warm to the touch. Beyond it, the landscape was lush, houses popping up every few seconds as we drove past.
Dusty driveways wound their way between the palms and past satellite dishes to simple structures, surrounded by tall green grass. The homes were bungalows built from concrete blocks, fitted with wooden windows and topped with corrugated roofs. I was reminded of my time driving through the Minahasa Highlands in Sulawesi.
The harbour town of Labuan Bajo sits on the westernmost tip of the island of Flores, a short 50-minute flight east of Bali. It’s the port town where you will likely begin your Komodo National Park tour.
The town itself centres around the main road, Jalan Soekarno Hatta, sitting a block back from the waterfront. You’ll find a cute bars, cafes, guest houses, tour and dive operators, just a walk from the boat pier where you’ll push off for diving, snorkelling and boat tours.
We stayed at the Jayakarta Suites about ten minutes drive south. The hotel was nice and clean with a lovely pool area and access to the beach.
Where: Labuan Bajo is a 1-hour flight from Bali with Garuda Airlines. They fly daily.
Contact: Travel Sparks offer tours and itineraries
More information: here
The stunning view from Melo Village, Flores.
Melo Village
Melo Village is about 45 minutes drive from Labuan Bajo on Mount Mbeliling. The village sits overlooking the valley below to the mountains beyond. The views alone are worth the visit.
This is a place visitors can come and spend half a day observing and immersing themselves in the culture and traditions of the Manggarai people. As we climbed up the dirt path, we were welcomed with smiles, music and a scarf made from traditional handmade ikat fabric.
The Manggarai are guided by rituals so it was fitting that we gathered as the chief led us through a welcome ceremony.
Soon after, a handful of our group was invited into the main house; a hut elevated on stilts. Climbing the ladder, I slid off my shoes and stepped onto the soft woven mats. We sat comfortably on either wall of the house, facing inwards, awaiting instructions. Handshakes and polite nods and we were officially welcomed into the modest space.
A small tin was then presented to the chief. He opened it and pulled out pieces of betel nut. Chewing betel nut is a popular past time in parts of Asia, dating back thousands of years.
The nut is harvested from the Areca palm and when chewed has an effect similar to drinking a strong energy drink. It can also be very addictive. We each chewed a small amount, encouraged to spit out the blood-red pulp as we went and urged not to swallow any of the plant as the effect would be much more potent.
Our mouths quickly filled with red liquid, staining our teeth. I definitely felt light-headed for about five minutes. We were then given a small amount of their home fermented alcohol made from coconuts, arak. We sipped it cautiously from a coconut shell. The whole experience was both fascinating and fun.
Another strong Manggarai tradition is the Caci dance. Danding dancers perform first to introduce the fight sequence that follows. Two men then face off with whips, jumping dramatically and attempt to whip the other. Their only protection is a shield and fabric wrapped around their faces. It was a very colourful performance set to a stunning mountain backdrop.
Where: Melo Village is 17km (about 45 minutes drive) from Labuan Bajo
More information: Contact Flores Tourism
Watch our video of Melo Village here
One of the Manggarai men preparing for the Caci performance in Melo Village, Flores. Image © Skye Gilkeson
The beautiful soft woven mats and ikat fabrics in the Melo Village house. Image © Skye Gilkeson
All hands on deck when it comes to meal time at Melo Village, Flores. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Gorgeous local boy with hair we would all kill for at Melo Village, Flores, Indonesia. Image © Skye Gilkeson
Komodo Island Boat Tour
We could almost hear the Jurassic Park soundtrack playing as we pulled into the wharf at Loh Liang, on Komodo Island. Dark silhouettes were moving on the sand off in the distance, a small group of visitors pivoting around them. Enter the Komodo dragon.
Ora as it is called locally or the Komodo dragon stirs tales of mystery and I have to say they certainly had an effect on me prior to stepping on to the sand. Warned of their blood lust, particularly of menstruating women, their lightning speed and their ability to camouflage themselves in their surroundings. I was already imagining myself at full pace, running away from the infamous creature, mirroring the T-Rex scene in the original Jurassic Park feature.