Think of Rome and your mind will likely conjure some combination of spectacular food, wild romance and large historical monuments. During a recent visit I was lucky enough to experience all of these, without even leaving my hotel. Welcome to the Palazzo Manfredi, where gladiatorial glamour is reimagined in a 5 star luxury hotel near the Colosseum.
Prized location: Palazzo Manfredi is overlooked by the incredible and iconic Colosseum in Rome. Image © Annie Scott
Ancient Fascination
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As a child I was always fascinated by scale. I liked really big things. Dinosaurs were an obvious early choice. A trip to London’s Natural History Museum soon gave me a new fixation with blue whales. After this I became transfixed with big ancient buildings. The pyramids. The Sphynx. Knossos Palace. When I learned at school about the Colosseum, Rome’s famous ancient amphitheatre, I was enthralled. Its epic size and the juxtaposition of so much beauty with the macabre brutality of the entertainment it hosted was utterly captivating. So, when I discovered there’s a fabulous five-star hotel that looks out over it, I obviously had to get there – pronto.
Sunshine floods the Roman forum. A must-see during your stay in Rome. Image © Annie Scott
A Blend of Old and New
As locations in Rome go, you really cannot do better that the Palazzo Manfredi. The discreetly stylish boutique hotel commands an exceptional Colosseum view – one so compelling it’s tempting to sit all day in the rooftop restaurant and gaze.
The building dates back to the 17th century when it was built as a villa for the Evangelisti family. It was then re-built in the 18th century as a hunting lodge for the noble Guidi family. Fifteen years ago Count Goffredo Manfredi, a famous construction magnate and entrepreneur, bought the property and transformed it into a luxury hotel. With such an auspicious past, it’s fitting that the building lives on as a sanctuary of elegance, great food and relaxation.
The entrance to Palazzo Manfredi aglow for the festive season. Image © Annie Scott
In stark contrast, directly in front of the hotel you can see the ruins of the ancient barracks, where gladiators lived and trained before meeting their fate in the Colosseum. Like so much of Rome it blows my mind that, nearly 2000 years on, it’s all still here. The good news is that life at the Palazzo Manfredi is about as far removed as you can get from the harsh realities of gladiatorial life.
Annie relaxes in the Palazzo Manfredi reading room. Image © Annie Scott
Quiet Roman Luxury
Despite being next to one of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations, the hotel feels discreet, quiet and intimate. If it wasn’t for the sparkling Christmas lights around the door I might have missed the entrance – once inside the sophisticated earthy tones, welcoming Chesterfield sofa and exquisite service made me immediately feel like Italian gentry.
I arrived in the morning before my room was ready, yet before I’d even blinked my luggage was stored away and I was whisked upstairs for a welcome drink. The hotel is centred round a dramatic spiral staircase, through the centre of which runs a charmingly old-fashioned iron-gated Italian elevator. You really do feel you are in the house of a grand Italian family.
From this you emerge into the hotel’s crown jewel – its rooftop restaurant and bistro. Sitting here in the morning sun – still warm even in winter – sipping espresso and staring in wonder at the magnificent Colosseum was the perfect welcome to Rome.
Prosecco on arrival at Palazzo Manfredi. Image © Annie Scott
A Place to Rest
The hotel has 16 rooms, ranging from smaller roadside options to the larger suites with that film set Colosseum view. The road is reasonably busy, but double-glazing dulls out most of the noise. My room was stylish and cosy. Crisp white linen, elegantly striped wallpaper, high ceilings and ample storage space. In the little seating area, a welcome note, bottle of Prosecco and some tempting nibbles were waiting next to a beautiful orchid. There was well-stocked mini-bar and even a pillow menu to ensure a restful night’s sleep.
Welcome snack at Palazzo Manfredi, Rome. Image © Annie Scott
The bathroom was tastefully decorated in the same theme and stocked with generously sized Acqua Di Parma products for a luxurious bathing experience. A phrenology bust on a shelf in the large rainfall shower was a fun touch – as was the transparent glass wall separating the shower from the rest of the room! In this city of romance be sure you stay with someone you feel comfortable with…
The elegant bedroom at Palazzo Manfredi Rome. Image © Annie Scott
Room service here offers more than just food. The hotel is small so there is no gym – but a call to reception and you’re provided with in-room gym equipment, a personal trainer or a masseuse.
Muted tones in the elegant bathroom at Palazzo Manfredi, Rome. Image © Annie Scott
Tempting Acqua Di Parma products in the bathroom at Palazzo Manfredi, Rome. Image © Annie Scott
Fabulous Food
To be honest, I didn’t think anything about this hotel could outshine its views. Then I tried the food in Aroma. The hotel offers two rooftop eateries – the formal Michelin starred Aroma Restaurant overlooking the Colosseum, and the more relaxed Aroma Bistro, which looks out over the Oppian Hill. The adjacent American Bar on the hotel’s terrace (cleverly covered over with glass in winter to keep out the chill) also offers snacks, and is a great relaxed place for an early evening drink.
The morning view from Aroma Restaurant at Palazzo Manfredi, Rome. Image © Annie Scott
The chef overseeing all of this is the talented Giuseppe Di Iorio. He’s a big believer in using local produce (the herbs used are those grown on the hotel’s terraces) and sustainable fish, and puts a modern twist on traditional Mediterranean cuisine. The food is utterly glorious. Unable to make a decision, I went for the tasting menu, which was so good I fear every meal I eat from now on will be a disappointment.