Pat Russo

Arc de Triomphe where several of the most famous streets in Paris begin like the most famous, Avenue des Champs-Élysées. © Pat Russo

As I leave my mark on the many, many pieces written about the streets of Paris, I find my American-Parisian heart feeling a little shy and wanting to add a soft disclaimer here before I begin.

First, in true French fashion: every rue in Paris is beautiful when you are visiting,

As Elaine Sciolino’s book entitled “The Only Street in Paris: Life on Rue Des Martyrs” indicates, we make our lives around the streets (Rue means street in French), when we live in Paris, not just the famous ones.

There is a word in French: “flâneur” which literally means wandering without a plan. (Also worth noting, the feminine of flâneur is “flâneuse.”)

This wandering is taken very seriously in Paris. 

Paris local Pat Russo uncovered all the most famous streets in Paris. © Pat Russo

50 of the Prettiest and Most Famous Streets in Paris

I’m going to share some of the most famous streets in Paris here.

But, I invite you to embrace the culture of wandering.

Because this has proven to be the best way to find the most magic and the most beautiful, off-the-beaten-path Paris streets that I love the most.

I also encourage you to make as the French people do and find the magic on the streets where you find yourself.

On one of the more recent of my own wandering, I crossed the Seine twice as I made my way past Notre Dame onto Isle Saint Louis.

Then, onto the other side of the river to the “Rive Droite” or Right Bank where I live in Le Marais.

It struck me as I finished my carefully curated list of famous streets in Paris, that the river is the most famous of them all, in a very poetic sense.

I am often asked by tourists “Where is the river from here?”.

Because, once you find the river you can find your way to many things in Paris, using this to get your bearings.

Exploring the prettiest and most famous streets in Paris. © Pat Russo

Famous Streets in Paris: Champs Elysées

Avenue des Champs-Élysées

With that said the most famous street in Paris is actually an avenue, 1.2 miles (1.9km) long to be exact.

Avenue des Champs-Élysées (“Avenue of the Elysian Fields” in French), connects the Arc de Triomphe with Place de la Concorde in what I feel is part of the sacred geometry of the city of Paris at Place Charles de Gaulle (or Place L’Etoile).

Champs-Élysées is considered one of the world’s most famous commercial streets because nearly every well-known global brand’s boutique can be found on this street.

This is also the street cyclists finish the Tour de France and runners run the Paris Marathon.

It is a grand boulevard worth visiting once in your life.

And, if you find yourself in Paris on the first Sunday of the month you can experience the rare and beautiful occasion of this street being car-free for one whole day.

This makes your task of taking a selfie in front of one of the world’s most iconic historical monuments, the Arc de Triomphe a lot easier.

The Golden Triangle Streets of Paris

The “Golden Triangle” of Paris includes Avenue Montaigne, Avenue des Champs-Élysées, and Avenue George V.

It is in this “triangle” that you have access to the luxury of Dior’s first atelier.

You’ll also find other fashion houses including Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Armani, Ralph Lauren, and Channel lining Avenue Montaigne (the most expensive street in Paris), and views from all directions of the Eiffel Tower.

In this “Golden Triangle Streets of Paris”, you also have the iconic landmarks that bookend Avenue des Champs-Élysées.

They are the Arc de Triomphe and Place de la Concorde, and some of the most beautiful and iconic Paris hotels.

One of the most famous streets in Paris, Rue de Rivoli. © Pat Russo

Rue de Rivoli

This famous main street in Paris begins in the 1^st arrondissement and travels to Le Marais in the 4th arrondissement.

It is famous because you can find these popular destinations on this street:

• Hotel de Ville
• Saint-Jacques Tower
• Louvre Museum
• Musée des Arts Décoratifs
• Jardin des Tuileries
• Statue of Joan of Arc
• Le Meurice Hotel
• L’Impérial Rivoli Café
• Jeu de Paume
• Place de la Concorde

Rue Montorgueil

Epicureans will delight in walking Rue Monteorgueil in the 2nd arrondissement.

This pedestrian street is lined with shops selling produce France is known for.

You’ll find cheese shops, pastry shops, bread, fruits, and of course, the oldest patisseries in Paris (dating back to 1730), Stohrer.

Avenue Victor Hugo

Not to be confused with where Victor Hugo lived (Place des Vosges), Avenue Victor Hugo is in the 16th arrondissement.

It is the second longest of the 12 avenues leading from the Arc de Triomphe at Place Charles de Gaulle.

Previously Avenue de Saint Cloud, the Paris road was renamed in 1881 for the famous French writer.

There is a statue in his honor Hugo near where Avenue Victor Hugo meets Henri Martin.

Hotel Particulier, where Hugo spent his last days can be found at number 124.

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Rue des Barres in Le Marais is a popular spot for tourists for its colorful facades. © Pat Russo

Famous Streets in Paris: Le Marais

Because I live on one of the “famous” streets in Le Marais, I know this neighborhood well.

The travel tip for visiting this Jewish quarter used to be to visit on Sundays when shops were open after Shabbat and the rest of the city was quiet.

But, now all of Paris is more open on Sundays.

Be sure to check any desired locations for Friday night or Saturday visits in the Marais.

These are the days and times when you might find certain restaurants and boutiques closed for Shabbat.

I recommend visiting during the week when this area is a bit more calm.

Rue des Francs Bourgeois

Rue des Francs Bourgeois is the main shopping street in the heart of Le Marais.

It’s also where you can find yourself in Place des Vosges at the end of this street and very close to Victor Hugo’s house.

There’s a very famous central square filled with grassy areas and fountains perfect for sunshine and picnics.

Pop into the newest location of Babka Zana near Place des Vosges for a sweet treat to enjoy in the sunshine.

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Rue Rosiers meaning “street of the rosebushes” in Le Marais, Paris. © Pat Russo

Rue des Rosiers

Rue de Rosiers is the most famous street in Le Marais, and a popular destination for Paris locals too.

This street is tiny but mighty and easy to miss as it’s tucked into the center.

You can find it more easily by making your way to Rue Vieille du Temple.

It’s well-known for many Jewish bakeries and delicatessens, and most-notably falafel.

On any given day in the Marais, you can see many people sitting and wandering while happily enjoying a falafel.

My favorite falafel can be found at Miznon (the local’s favorite spot).

Don’t forget to pop into Sacha Finkelsztajn for a sweet treat too, a Jewish bakery in the Marais since 1946.

The secret garden on this street with the same name Jardin des Rosiers Joseph Migneret is worth a moment too.

It’s the perfect quiet place to enjoy a picnic or a moment of rest from the city’s energy.

Other notable streets in Le Marais, Paris:

• Rue Vieille du Temple
• Rue de Turrenne
• Rue Bretagne
• Rue Charlot
• Rue de Saintonge
• Rue Rambuteau
• Rue des Barres
• Rue Sevigne

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One of the most Famous Streets in Paris Boulevard de Clichy, is home to the Moulin Rouge. © Pat Russo

Famous Streets in Paris: Montmartre

If being on a street where Picasso, Vlamenck, Derain, Soutine, Modigliani, Vincent Van Gogh, and countless other famous artists lived and worked.

If it is this type of famous Paris street your heart is seeking, you should make your way to Montmartre in the 18th arrondissement.

Montmartre is famous for many reasons.

One of them is that you can climb the steps of the 80-meter dome in the Basilica Sacre-Coeur to reach the highest point in Paris and the most spectacular panoramic view from this spot.

Find your way to Montmartre by various metro lines, wearing your most comfortable shoes.

Expect to walk up many steps and gently climb several winding streets to find the treasures there, including the surprising Clos Montmartre Vineyard.

Look for Le Mur des “Je t’aime” or “The Wall of Love” near the entrance of the Abbesses Metro (Square Jehan Rictus, Place des Abbesses so you don’t miss it).

It is a wall with “I love you” written in hundreds of languages, and not far from this wall you can find one of my favorite vintage shops in Paris called Chinemachine.

Montmartre feels more like a “village” and for this reason, the streets are tiny and perfect for wandering without a map or plan.

I like to arrive in Montmartre by foot from Le Marais (it is an ambitious wander).

But, if you want to find yourself there by metro popping out into a scene from a movie, and a very famous spot in Paris, take Metro Line 12 to Lamarck-Caulaincourt which can be found on the neighborhood’s Northern border.

This iconic spot has been filmed and photographed many times and it is just a short walk from Sacre-Coeur.

A typical Montmartre street scene in Paris. © Pat Russo

Rue Cortot

Just a few minutes walk from the Lamarck-Caulaincourt metro station on your way to Sacre-Coeur, take Rue Cortot.

You’ll find a little square aptly named Place Dalida with a statue in honor of this beloved French singer.

Rue Lepic

One of the most famous streets in Paris, Rue Lepic in Montmartre is where you can find your way to the (real) café (Café des Deux Moulins) where Amelie worked in the film.

Follow it along as you discover Van Gogh’s apartment at 54 Rue Lepic.

Then, find the old-world 17th-century Moulin de la Galette windmill at the peak of this famous street.

Taking Rue Lepic to Rue des Saules you’ll find one of the most legendary cabarets called Au Lapin Agile.

This is a place where Van Gogh,  Picasso, and celebrities like Charlie Chaplin once spent time.

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Place du Tertre in Montmartre Paris is a great place to get your portrait painted or buy souvenirs. © Pat Russo

Place du Tertre

Less of a street, and more of a square, or “Place” in French, this bustling square is quintessential Montmartre with canvases in motion and beret-wearing artists lining the café terraces on all sides of this square.

The Dali Museum is located just behind this square on Rue Poulbot and this spot in Montmartre is a great place for feeling like a tourist.

Boulevard de Clichy

Famous for a very different reason, Boulevard de Clichy sits in the “red light district” of Paris.

This is where you can find the iconic Moulin Rouge and the neighborhood of Pigalle.

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Rue Des Saules in Montmartre Paris sitting high on the hill. © Pat Russo

Rue Saint-Rustique

Rue Saint-Rustique is one of the oldest streets in Paris and possibly the oldest street in Montmartre.

The tiny cobbled laneway connects Rue des Saules to Rue du Mont Cenis.

Wander down this ancient street when visiting Paris’ must-see Basilica de Sacre Coeur.

Other famous Montmartre streets:

• Rue Norvins
• Boulevard de Rochechouart
• Passage Cottin
• Rue Ramey
• Rue du Chevalier de la Barre
• Villa Leandre
• Rue Cyrano de Bergerac
• Rue Lamarck
• Rue des Abbesses

Rue du Chevalier de la Barre in Montmartre where you can see the stunning architecture and historic Sacre Coeur Cathedral. © Pat Russo

Famous Streets in Paris: Saint-Germain-des Prés

A piece of my heart will always live in Saint-Germain.

This was the very first neighborhood in Paris where I found my first apartment near Saint Sulpice (on my very favorite street in Paris called Rue Servandoni).

It’s a spot that still calls to me from across the river.

This part of the city spans three neighborhoods: the Latin Quarter in the 5^th arrondissement, Saint-Germain in the 6^th, and Pont de la Concorde in the 7^th.

Boulevard Saint-Germain

Boulevard Saint-Germain is an iconic street in Paris.

The perfect place for lunch, this is also one of the most famous streets in Paris for cafes.

Make your way to Les Deux Magots, Brasserie Lipp, or Café Flore.

You will find yourself in cafes where well-known writers, painters, and philosophers such as Hemingway, Simone de Beauvoir, Sartre, Steinem, and Picasso once spent time.

The “Lost Generation” as they were called once frolicked here and because of this and more this street is a must-visit.

Rue de Buci Paris is a long-loved tiny street where locals meet to shop and dine. © Pat Russo

Rue de Buci

Rue de Buci has an incredible history over the years of being many things.

One of the much-loved small streets of Paris, this less-than-200-meter-long street is now the meeting place, shopping place, and café-hopping place of many people both tourists and locals alike.

Other notable Saint-Germain streets are:

• Place de l’Odeon at the end of Rue de l’Odeon
• Rue Bonaparte
• Rue des Saints-Pères
• Rue Dauphine (and Place Dauphine)
• Rue Mouffetard
• Place de la Contrescarpe on Rue Mouffetard

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Avenue de Camoens is one of the best places to take a photo of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. © Pat Russo

The Best Streets in Paris for Photos of the Eiffel Tower

Because she is so beloved, and the treasure of Paris and all who visit this city, the streets that surround her have become famous in their own right.

The best places to photograph the Eiffel Tower are:

• Avenue de Camoëns
• Rue de l’Université
• Avenue Albert 1er de Monaco
• Rue Saint-Dominique, Trocadéro
• Square Rapp (off Avenue Rapp)
• From the Seine, especially next to Pont d’Iéna and from Pont Alexandre III (where you’ll also find the Grand Palais and Petit Palais)

One of the most famous streets in Paris for shopping is Rue Saint Dominique. © Pat Russo

Famous Streets in Paris for Shopping

Paris is a shopping city. From incredible vintage shops to department stores, high-end fashion houses, and groundbreaking French brands, there is something for every fashion palette here.

These are a few of the famous streets in Paris for shopping.

Rue Cler

Just a few minutes from the Eiffel Tower is Rue Cler, one of the most charming streets in Paris.

Follow in the footsteps of Julia Child and other well-known gourmands and shop from the open-air market and grocery stores along this famous Paris street.

Arrive in the morning to beat the crowds, choose some of the perfectly fresh produce, and set up a picnic in the Champs de Mars (Field of Mars) to enjoy Le Tour Eiffel from a different perspective.

Rue Saint Dominique

Nearby Rue Saint Dominique has become known as one of the best shopping streets in Paris.

You’ll be tempted by so many beautiful brands like The Kooples, Maje, Claudie Pierlot, and Des Petits Hautes on this street.

Rue Saint-Honore

Rue Saint-Honore is the definition of Paris chic.

Home to high-end boutiques and 5-star hotels it is also a great spot for people watching.

One of the most famous shopping streets in Paris and at almost 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) long, wear some comfortable (and stylish) shoes for a walk along Rue Saint-Honore.

Maison Goyard (just around the corner from Place Vendôme and the Ritz Hotel), Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant, Louboutin, and Chopard among many other luxury brands line either side of this Paris street.

Boulevard Haussmann

Boulevard Haussmann is a famous Parisian street designed by Baron Haussmann in his very recognizable architectural style.

A popular shopping street, it is nearly 2 kilometers long reaching from Avenue de Friedland to the Boulevard Montmartre.

You’ll pass many historic buildings featuring the iconic Haussmannian facade, department stores large like Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, and the stunning Opéra Garnier.

If you are visiting Paris during Christmas time, a visit to the department stores is a must, if only to see the magnificent festive decorations.

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Rue de l’Abreuvoir has become one of the most famous streets in Paris, known as ‘the pink street’. © Pat Russo

Instagram Famous Streets in Paris

Paris has long been a photographer’s dream.

But, Instagram has turned it into a social-media superstar, with Instagram tours of the city, and tourists madly trying to get the perfect photo of the city’s most iconic landmarks.

Three of the most Instagram famous streets in Paris are Ruse Cremieux, Rue de l’Abreuvoir and Rue de l’Universite.

Rue Cremieux

The pastel-washed buildings of Rue Cremieux remind many of Burano’s very famous village facades.

This is arguably the most colorful street in Paris.

So, it’s easy to see why this has become such a popular spot and one of the most photographed streets in Paris.

Rue de l’Université

A gorgeous cobblestone residential street on the Left Bank in the 7th arrondissement perfectly frames the Eiffel Tower.

It should come as no surprise this is the most Instagrammed street in Paris.

You’ll often find crowds gathering to take their prized shot and move on.

The iconic cafe, Les Deux Magots in Saint-Germain should also be on your Paris Instagram list. © Pat Russo

Rue de l’Abreuvoir

Likely one of the most Instagram-famous Paris streets because of La Maison Rose.

With the iconic pastel pink façade, this Montmartre restaurant is perfectly placed on the top of this winding cobbled street.

The ‘pink street in Paris’, as it’s often known, is one of the oldest and most historic streets in the City of Light.

It is where you can find your way to Renoir’s house, which makes it a really famous destination.

In recent years, it’s also become known for starring as the backdrop for an Emily in Paris episode where Emily set up a bed as a marketing stunt.

Rue Denoyez

Looking for a unique photo in Paris – without a bridge or tower in sight?

Rue Denoyez in Belleville might be the perfect Paris Instagram spot for you.

One of the streets where street art is legalized, Rue Denoyez has become a veritable living art gallery of graffiti, featuring artists from all around the world.

One of the best things to do while in this part of Paris is to try the monthly street food market held here.

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Rue Cremieux is the most colorful street in Paris and one of the most photographed too. © Pat Russo

Famous Streets in Paris: Emily in Paris Filming Locations

Rue de l’Estrapade

Emily in Paris characters Emily and Gabriel live in a building at number 1, Place de l’Estrapad – where rue de l’Estrapade meets rue Lhomond and rue des Fossés-Saint-Jacques.

Place de Valois

Emily’s fictional workplace “Savoir” is set at 6 Place de Valois in the 1st arrondissement.

The doorway is right next to the Galerie Patrick Fourtin.

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Lamarck-Caulaincourt Metro station in Montmarte Paris. © Pat Russo

Luxury Hotels on Famous Streets in Paris

If you dream of a luxury Paris hotel stay, on or within walking distance of some of these famous streets in Paris, this list has you covered.

From palace hotels to boutique stays, these Paris hotels all offer something unique for the perfect visit, whether it is your first visit to Paris or you have been to the capital many times.

Hotel Plaza Athenee

A luxury hotel on the iconic Avenue Montaigne (and 5 minutes from the Champs Elysees), Hotel Plaza Athenee is an Haute Couture hotel featuring a Dior house spa, made for fashion lovers.

Recognized the world over by its crimson awnings and artfully matching 1900 geraniums adorning the facade.

This palace hotel is the perfect place to stay if you are looking for a hotel with a view of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, particularly suited to those planning a romantic stay in Paris.

Click to Check Prices for Plaza Athenee

La Reserve Paris

Just around the corner from the Champs Elysees, Avenue Montaigne, and Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré is the beautiful boutique La Reserve Paris.

This boutique 5-star Paris hotel is a popular choice for celebrities and the well-to-do for its personalized offering. This is not a large palace hotel, but rather an ultra-luxurious home away from home.

With an old-world feel, the spaces are intimate and carefully thought out from the welcome salon to the private guest library and indoor pool (a premium in Paris).

Read about our high tea at La Reserve Paris.

Click to Check Prices for La Reserve Paris

Hilton Paris Opera

Five minutes walk from the shopping enticements, the Hilton Paris Opera is a grand Paris palace hotel.

Located on Rue Saint Lazare, the hotel is a short walk from some great Paris shopping with Boulevarde Haussman just a couple of minutes away.

It is also a few minutes from Montemarte and the Sacre Cour Cathedral.

Our favorite part of this stunning Paris hotel is the breathtaking Le Grand Salon.

Read about our stay at the Hilton Paris Opera.

Click to Check Prices for Hilton Paris Opera

The Peninsula Paris

The Arc du Triomphe, Avenue Champs Elysees, and Avenue Victor Hugo are all only a few minutes walk from The Peninsula Paris on Avenue Kleber.

This incredible luxury Paris hotel has all the touch points you’d expect from an ultra-luxury suite hotel; from flexible check-in times to rooms that are among the largest in the city.

Can’t swing a room just yet? Book a table at the rooftop restaurant with magical views of the Eiffel Tower and surrounding rooftops.

Read about our day at The Peninsula Paris.

Click to See Prices for The Peninsula Paris

The Westin Paris Vendome

Located on the Rue de Rivoli, The Westin Paris Vendome is conveniently located within close walking distance of The Louvre, Place Vendome, Place de la Concorde, and Rue Saint Honore.

Rue Saint-Dominique, Rue de l’Universite, and Boulevarde Saint-Germain are a short, picturesque walk through Jardin de Tuileries, across the Seine River.

This is a large, 4-star hotel really is in the heart of everything you would want to see on your first time in Paris.

Splurge on a room with a view of the Eiffel Tower or Louvre.

Read about our stay at The Westin Paris Vendome.

Click to See Prices for The Westin Paris Vendome

Here are More Amazing Travel Guides for France:

Cap D’Antibes: The Perfect South of France Holiday

5 of the Best Beaches in Antibes

The Best Restaurants in Antibes

Incredible Things to Do in Avignon

What it’s Like to Take a Luxury Barge Holiday in France

Pat Russo

Pat Russo is a Mystic, Muse, and Spiritual Teacher guiding women into their hearts with a journey of softening. She is a published poet, a lover of hearts, and a forever student.

Feeling the impossibility of choosing between her two favorite cities, she considers San Francisco and Paris home.

www.patricia-russo.com/

Pat Bailey

Antibes offers the perfect South of France beach holiday | © Pat Bailey

A South of France Beach Holiday in Beautiful Antibes

This sweet-smelling paradise, its named villas, and postcard-worthy landscape have left their mark on my heart.

They say once you’ve visited the French Riviera you are changed forever and you return again and again.

This is certainly the case for me.

“Actually, that’s my secret — I can’t even talk about you to anybody because I don’t want any more people to know how wonderful you are.” 

F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote these words in the 1920s. He and his wife Zelda were falling in love with Cap d’Antibes.

The words are from his book Tender is the Night and could be applied to what I’m about to share with you about this very special place.

Getting to Antibes and Cap d’Antibes

The stunning town of Antibes sits between Cannes and Nice on the famed French Riviera (Cote d’Azur).

Cap d’Antibes is the peninsula just south of Antibes. It sits on the French Riviera between Cannes to the West and Nice along the coast all the way to Italy to the East.

A trip to Cap d’Antibes is an easy and short domestic flight from Paris to Nice (the closest major airport to Antibes).

A quick 20-minute taxi ride from the airport outside Nice to Antibes will have you on the stunning Cap d’Antibes.

The train from Paris to Nice and Nice to Antibes is simple. I traveled easily from Paris to Antibes by train. Leaving from Gare De Lyon, the journey takes just under seven hours. 

Related: Amazing Things to Do in Avignon

The stunning Cap D’Antibes Hotel is a must-stay hotel. | © Pat Bailey

Where to Stay in Antibes

A South of France Beach Holiday conjures images of indulgence and that’s exactly what a boutique hotel in Antibes offers.

Antibes luxury hotels offer all the touch points of larger, luxury European hotels but in a much more intimate setting.

These are 5 of the best luxury hotels in Cap d’Antibes:

• Hotel du Cap Eden Roc
• Hotel Belles Rives
• Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel
• Hotel Juana
• Hotel Imperial Garoupe

In addition, there is an abundance of Antibes villas to rent if a more intimate experience is what you want.

I split my time between a private Antibes villa and a stay at one of the most beautiful Antibes hotels, Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel.

It made for the perfect independent, local feel and a more pampered stay.

Related: Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel Review

Antibes offers a blend of nature and luxury. | © Pat Bailey

8 of the Best Things to Do in Antibes

There is an energy of fitness and vitality in Cap d’Antibes, as well as a feeling of appreciation for living a beautiful life.

The balance of being active and taking time to relax and enjoy the beauty is possible with many things to do to appease both desires.

1. Spend the Day at the Beach

A South of France holiday during the summer months is synonymous with slow days at the beach.

Whether you want to take a quick dip or splurge on a day at one of the iconic beach clubs, one of the many beaches in Antibes will meet your needs.

Read our guide to the best beaches in Antibes

Related: The Best Restaurants in Antibes

The trails around Antibes are popular with experienced and novice hikers. | © Pat Bailey

2. Hiking in Antibes

One of my very favorite things to do on Cap d’Antibes is the hike around the tip of the cape.

The Sentier du Littoral is really two hikes in one depending on which direction you go.

The views from either direction are spectacular. But, many locals advise that you start the hike at the Villa Eilenroc and end at La Garoupe. They claim that the views are more spectacular with the sun behind you. Another advantage is that you finish at one of the magnificent Antibes beaches.

I did the hike in both directions. Going the opposite way I ended in Juan Les Pins with a pizza on the beach at the boardwalk where there are many culinary choices to reward you for your efforts.

To hike like a local, stop at a boulangerie before you go. And, pick up the local Niçoise sandwich called Pan Bagnat, it is a specialty of the French Riviera.

The very best one can be found on the Le Salis beach in Antibes at a little beach bar called Chez Josy. It has been there for decades. 

Bring plenty of water, wear walking shoes, and wear your bathing suit so that you can stop along the way at any one of the tempting swimming and picnicking spots.

It’s best to do the hike when you have plenty of time. The entire hike from one side of the cape to another takes at least a few hours depending on how many times you stop and how many glorious photos you take. 

This hike is one of the best hikes on the French Riviera. The path is very easy and clear but there are many places with steps that are steep and narrow so it is best to walk with care and be prepared for a little adventure.

If you prefer a guided tour of this hike they happen twice a week during July and August and a reservation is required.

3. Visit Port Gallice

There is a little port called Port Gallice which stole my heart during my visit.

There’s a small beach tucked just beside the docked boats in this port.  The water is crystal clear and the sunset from this spot is a work of art.

Related: A Guide to Hiking in Interlaken

Pat enjoys a bespoke dining experience in Antibes. | © Pat Bailey

4. Enjoy a Bespoke Dining Experience

There is a local man named Nitin and his wife who offer a beach picnic experience that is right out of the pages of a luxury travel magazine.

When you arrive the entire picnic with a table, cushions for seating, and an umbrella for shade are ready for you. 

The small meal, apero, or custom menu is prepared by Nitin which he sets up and takes down. I invited a few friends to join me for a drink and it was a standout as one of the best things to do in Cap d’Antibes.

5. Watch the Cliff Jumping in Bale des Milliardaires

If cliff jumping is on your list you must visit the Bale des Milliardaires. Or perhaps you just don a beautiful suit and watch from the nearly private beach.

Locals have been visiting this spot for generations. Mid-afternoons are usually the busiest when they meet here and launch themselves into the sea from the various cliffs which are perfectly placed for thrill-seekers.

This spot is a popular place for land and sea lovers: the crystal-clear blue waters are perfect for swimming and snorkeling. And, the little cove is a great spot for boats to be anchored and the sandy beach is a rare treat.

6. Visit Villa Eilenroc Gardens

A visit to Villa Eilenroc Gardens is a must.

If you find yourself on Cap d’Antibes in May you will be fortunate to be there during “Les Floralies d’Antibes”. It’s a week-long flower festival when the roses are in full bloom and the smell is intoxicating. 

Throughout the rest of the year, Eilenroc is open on the first and third Saturdays of the month and on Wednesday afternoons.

7. Visit an Antibes Art Gallery

Art lovers will find many ways to spend their days gazing at some of the very best art in the world.

From Picasso to Matisse, Chagall, Kandinsky, and Soulages, the art that can be found along this part of the French Riviera is swoon-worthy.

Not to be missed while visiting Cap d’Antibes is the Picasso Museum located in the Chateau Grimaldi.

Perched above the Mediterranean in nearby Antibes, the collection of art here represents the work that Picasso created while living on the French Riviera. It beautifully captures the spirit of the sea.

Unique to this museum is a collection of ceramics that Picasso fabricated in Vallauris, a pottery center nearby.

The local art scene in Antibes is flourishing with many galleries and studios to visit.

This is beautifully expressed in the collective of artists called “Premiers Vendredis”. They open their doors on the first Friday of every month and encourage “amateurs d’arts” to visit and chat with them while sharing an aperitif.

There is a culture and appreciation for sharing the arts in Antibes. You can easily find yourself at a pottery wheel or canvas during one of these Fridays and the artists in Antibes often offer workshops and classes.

8. Stay Active

One of my favorite things about Antibes and Cap d’Antibes is the feeling of fitness and vitality here.

Because the cape is an active place is easy to rent paddleboards in Antibes as well as kayaks, electric bikes, and even boats during your stay.

On any given day you will see cyclists riding along the coast, hikers making their way on paths and trails, and an abundance of water sports activities. 

It is also possible to rent a bicycle and cycle from Antibes to Cannes or Nice if you are serious and love coastal rides.

Cap Kayak in Port Gallice offers kayaks for rent and Paddling in Antibes is the place to grab a paddleboard.

Hiking the cape on the Sentier du Littoral trail is by far my favorite way to stay active on Cap d’Antibes.

There are also many boat cruises and tours if you’d rather have a local guide.

Related: A Montepulciano Wine Tasting Guide

Picture perfect moments around every corner in Antibes. | © Pat Bailey

Where to Eat in Antibes

From beachside bites to local Antibes delicacies and Michelin Star dining there are so many great Antibes restaurants.

For more on where to eat in Antibes from cute cafes to the best restaurants in Antibes see our full guide.

Where to Shop in Cap d’Antibes

Shopping on Cap d’Antibes is sparse with only a few groceries stores, a pharmacy, and a local market.

For serious shopping, it is best to venture to a nearby town such as Antibes, Nice, Cannes, or Juan Les Pins.

Marche Provençal

One shopping experience not to miss is the close-by Marche Provençal in the heart of Old Town in Antibes.

This local covered market takes place every day from Tuesday to Sunday in the Winter, and daily in the high season (June 1 – August 31). 

The size of the market varies throughout the year, but you can find up to fifty vendors on site on a typical day.

The market is a feast for the five senses with glorious colors carefully curated with the typical French market aesthetic (worthy of big Likes on your Instagram account), marvelous aromas of Provence, and tasty fresh delicacies from both land and sea.

The early bird gets the worm at this market so serious shoppers arrive early, the market officially opens at 7:30 am.

Not to be missed are the locally harvested fruits and vegetables, the spice stall which is an Instagram favorite, the charcuterie stall in the middle of the market with wild boar saucisson and figatellu. 

Just across from the charcuterie you will find one of my favorite vendors, Fromagerie Hibert with an incredibly decadent selection of fresh cheeses. 

If you arrive early you can beat the long cue usually lined up at the Boucherie Testa.

There’s also the local’s favorite butcher. I watched him work one morning and it doesn’t get any fresher than that.

Of course, a market like this on the sea isn’t without fresh fish. At the opposite end of the fountain entrance, you will find Denis Genovese’s fish stall where he sells the freshly caught fish of the day, he is the last of four generations of fishermen to peddle his catch here. 

There are fresh flowers, pastries, jams, and of course, if you are hungry you can join the cue for a freshly made Socca baked in a wood fire oven.  This market was a daily favorite destination for me and certainly one of many ways to feel like a local when visiting Antibes.

Related: How to See Florence in Two Days

Marche Provençal in the heart of Old Town in Antibes should not be missed. | © Pat Bailey

Boulangerie Veziano

Before every early market visit, I made my way to the oldest boulangerie in Antibes, Boulangerie Veziano. It is very close by.

Boulangerie Veziano has been passed down from father to son since 1924.

If you miss the early cue or sleep in, you may arrive at closed doors and a sold-out hot spot. Try everything but don’t miss the sourdough bread, it is incredible.

Antibes Old Town

As a wandering shopper, I found delight in discovering many small boutiques in Antibes Old Town.

There is even an English bookstore called Antibes Books on Rue Georges Clemenceau.

Be sure to wander through Le Commune Libre du Safranier, a part of the town created in the early 1960s by local residents to preserve the local cultural traditions and festivals.

Covering an area between Rue de la Tourraque and Rue de la République you will find a myriad of pretty, mainly pedestrian, streets that are so beautiful you will feel like you are in a French postcard.

Related: The Ultimate Loire Valley Cruise

Antibes is the ideal first stop on a European holiday with countries like Italy so close by. | © Pat Bailey

Day Trips from Antibes

Antibes may be one of the most exceptionally located places. It is the ideal base for your South of France beach holiday as there are so many beautiful nearby places to visit in all directions up and down the coast.

There are many spectacular destinations within an hour of Antibes. With the train and bus network, it is possible to do this easily without renting a car.

Antibes to Nice

Antibes to Nice takes about twenty minutes by train.

Nice is a beautiful coastal destination. Be sure to splurge for lunch or sunset dinner at Le Plongeoir. Also, don’t miss a wander around the charming Old Town.

Antibes to Cannes

Antibes to Cannes takes 15 minutes by train. So, you can easily take a day trip to Cannes.

Cannes is perfect for high-end designer boutique shopping and a luxe lunch on the coast. 

Antibes to Saint Paul de Vence

Saint-Paul de Vence is a nearby medieval village located about thirty minutes from Antibes.

This village is known for its art galleries and Provencal shops.

Antibes to Monaco, Eze and Villefranche Sur Mer

If Monaco is on your wish list you are just forty-five minutes away from Antibes and you can be in another world for the day.

Closeby Eze and Villefranche Sur Mer are also easily accessible and incredibly beautiful for an extended trip or change of scenery. 

Antibes to Saint Tropez

Saint Tropez is also close, with a ferry leaving from Golfe Juan to St. Tropez during the Summer months.

Antibes to Italy

Antibes is incredibly close to Italy.

Antibes to Ventimiglia or St. Remo take about an hour.

It’s so close by train that you may feel tempted to extend your trip just a bit longer and follow the coast into the land of pasta and beautiful red wines.

An Iconic South of France Beach Holiday

This part of the world is spectacular in every way. Whether you stay in Antibes or close by in a beautiful hotel in Cap d’Antibes, you are sure to feel the fullness of the iconic Cote d’Azur during your South of France beach holiday. 

The mark of time well-spent here is bronzed skin, tousled sea-worn hair, and a happy countenance for days after your visit ends.

It is as Fitzgerald says, when you are in Antibes it feels as though you are “breathing dreams like air…”.

More France Travel Tips:

5 of the Best Beaches in Antibes

Where to Eat in Antibes

Wonderful Things to do in Avignon

Pat Russo

Pat Russo is a Mystic, Muse, and Spiritual Teacher guiding women into their hearts with a journey of softening. She is a published poet, a lover of hearts, and a forever student.

Feeling the impossibility of choosing between her two favorite cities, she considers San Francisco and Paris home.

www.patricia-russo.com/

Pat Russo 

Pat enjoys an afternoon apero at Royal Beach Club Antibes. | © Pat Bailey

5 of the Best Beaches in Antibes

In the high season, you will need to arrive early or make a reservation at one of the beautiful Antibes beach clubs to ensure you have a spot you’d like and settle in for the day.

If you are staying at one of the beautiful Antibes luxury hotels, the concierge will be able to make your bookings for you during your stay.

1. Plage de la Gravette

Plage de la Gravette is a great Antibes beach for families, in particular for its proximity to the Port of Antibes and the old town.

The nearness to the Port.

It is a nicely sheltered cove with shallow waters. It is also blessed with the beautiful backdrop of the iconic Old Antibes medieval ramparts.

Quai Henri Rambaud, Port Vauban, Antibes

Related: Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel Review

The conveniently located Plage de la Gravette is a great choice for families. | © Pat Bailey

2. Plage du Ponteil

A popular public sandy beach in Antibes is the Plage du Ponteil. Set up on soft white sand for the day and look back to the north admiring the stunning historic buildings of the old town and the cape.

The Royal Beach is the only Antibes beach club on this stretch.

Open during the summer months, Royal Beach is a beautiful place for lunch or an apero and always nice for an afternoon of pampering in the sun.

View beach club rates here.

16 Boulevard Maréchal Leclerc, Antibes

Related: How to Spend Two Days in Rome

Royal Beach Club at Plage du Ponteil in Antibes. | © Pat Bailey

3. Plage de la Salis

Just around the point to the south is Plage de la Salis. While this is not the prettiest of the beaches in Antibes, it is a public stretch and it has sand, not stones underfoot.

You will find Chez Josy and other snack bars right on the beach and also public toilets at the south end.

Enjoy a snack and a swim with the view back to the old town of Antibes, just a kilometer to the north.

Bd James Wyllie Antibes

Related: Florence in Two Days

A healthy cafe on the sand, Chez Josy is a great snack spot when on Plage de la Salis. | © Pat Bailey

4. Plage de la Garoupe

Located in Cap d’Antibes, Plage de la Garoupe has a couple of very small public beach spots on one side.

On the other are two luxurious Antibes beach clubs, Plage Keller and Plage Joseph.

As one of the original holiday beaches on the cape, it’s no surprise it remains a popular summer spot on the cape.

Spend the day lazing at one of these Antibes beach clubs, snorkeling, swimming, and settling in for afternoon drinks on the sand.

Try to resist the urge to go Insta-crazy though. Selfies are banned at La Garoupe in an effort to encourage guests to stay in the present and enjoy the beautiful setting.

Plage Keller Beach Club and Plage Joseph offer all the amenities you would expect from an upmarket South of France beach club.

Book a sunbed on the pontoon over the waters of La Garoupe Bay or settle in on the sandy beach.

Spend your day between the water and a good book, take a break at the panoramic restaurant, and enjoy an afternoon apero from the comfort of your lounger.

Showers, free car parking, and an on-duty lifeguard are all included in the daily rate.

Chemin de la Garoupe, Cap d’Antibes

Related: The Best Restaurants in Antibes

Plage de la Garoupe is home to two luxurious beach clubs in Cap d’Antibes. | © Pat Bailey

5. Plage des Ondes

Plage des Ondes is another sandy beach with an iconic Petit Tour (small tower) that is in the water and popular for photographs.

I loved this beach at the end of my hike and for sunset relaxing. 

It is also a perfect pick for families with small children as the waters are shallow and calm.

However, there aren’t any food outlets or amenities so pack your snacks before you go.

Boulevard Marechal Juin Juan-les-Pins, Antibes

Just a couple of minutes’ drive north is the Hotel Belles Rives Beach Club in Juan les Pins. It is a lovely option for lunch, swimming, and even an evening cocktail.

We hope you loved this round-up of 5 of the best beaches in Antibes.

Here are more France travel tips for your trip:

Where to Eat in Antibes

Amazing Things to Do in Antibes

Incredible Things to do in Avignon

Search Accommodation Deals in Antibes

The iconic Petit Tour (small tower) at Plage des Ondes beach Antibes. | © Pat Bailey

Pat Russo

Pat Russo is a Mystic, Muse, and Spiritual Teacher guiding women into their hearts with a journey of softening. She is a published poet, a lover of hearts, and a forever student.

Feeling the impossibility of choosing between her two favorite cities, she considers San Francisco and Paris home.

www.patricia-russo.com/

Pat Bailey

The warm and inviting space at Nomads Specialty Coffee, Antibes. | © Pat Bailey

The Best Restaurants in Antibes

Antibes Coffee Shops

La Torref de Fersen

Franck the owner of La Torref de Fersen is a serious coffee aficionado.

Franck makes beautiful coffee and has a small collection of tools for other coffee lovers to take home to hone their craft. He even offers workshops upon request if you are interested in learning how to make the perfect latte art.

Nomads Coffee

Evelyn the owner of Nomads Coffee shares her love for the bean through small-batch roasted beans crafted lovingly into your preferred pour.

They showcase delicious specialty coffees from around the world, each with a unique flavor profile and story.

Choopy’s Cupcakes and Coffee

Choopy’s Cupcakes and Coffee is worth at least one visit during your stay in Antibes. The bonus is that all of the cupcakes are vegan.

If you are lucky you’ll find the owner JC there and he will happily guide you as you make your decision.

This is a perfect stop for an afternoon cupcake or a decadent brunch of pancakes with maple syrup or eggs benedict if they are on your list.

Chez Josy

For a healthy lunch on the sand try Chez Josy. Serving up colorful organic vegetarian fare for takeaway or relax-in, the health-conscious traveler will love a reprieve at this cute cafe.

Featuring a small organic market it’s also the perfect place to grab some snacks to take exploring or to cook up back at your Antibes accommodation.

Related: Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel France

Stop in for a delicious sweet treat at Choopy’s Cupcakes and Coffee in Antibes. © Pat Bailey

Grab a healthy bite on the go at Chez Josy, Antibes. © Pat Bailey

Cocktail Bars in Antibes

Fitzgerald Bar

The Fitzgerald Bar located in the five-star Hôtel Belles Rive has one of the most beautiful terraces on the cape. It’s perfect for a sunset cocktail or date night, opening from 5 pm each day. Expect an old-world feel with premium pours and a gourmet snacking menu to savor alongside the sounds of a live pianist.

Le Troquet des Milliardaires

Oliver, the owner of Le Troquet des Milliardaires will make you the perfect “surprise me” cocktail upon request. Sip on his creations on the terrace facing the Quai des Milliardaires and admire the collection of incredible superyachts on show.

It’s open from 6 pm Tuesday to Saturday and bookings are encouraged via their website.

Bespoke Dining on Antibes Beach

For something truly unique, book a bespoke vegetarian dining experience on the sand with Expood.

They set the scene and you bring your date or your friends and settle in on the sand for a few hours of sunset dining and drinking bliss.

Related: Where to Eat in Montepulciano Italy

Pat waits for friends to join her beachside celebration on Antibes beach. | © Pat Bailey

Antibes Michelin Star Restaurants

You can’t name the best restaurants in Antibes without highlighting their extensive Michelin-star offering. If Michelin star dining is your wish you are in luck with several beautiful options.

Louroc Restaurant

Without question one of the best restaurants in Antibes and the most decadent is Louroc Restaurant.

Located at Hotel du Cap Eden Roc, Executive Chef Arnaud Poëtte and his team have created an award-winning menu. Shaped from the best local and seasonal selections including delicious fresh seafood the menu will be memorable.

This restaurant is open seasonally from May until October. Reservations are strongly encouraged and the dress code is formal.

Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit

Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit offers a delicious classical French dining experience crafted from local ingredients sourced at the markets, each day.

Chef Christian Morisset aims to excite the tastebuds through unpretentious, simple, and subtly flavored dishes.

La Passagère

La Passagère is located at the incredible Hotel Belle Rives in Juan Les Pines, Cap d’Antibes. It is a very popular one-star Michelin restaurant with a stunning sea-facing terrace with a menu centered around local seafood. 

The restaurant is open from Wednesday to Sunday.

Les Pēcheurs

Les Pēcheurs, is a one-star Michelin restaurant located in the Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel. 

When you dine at Les Pēcheurs you are in Nicolas Rondelli’s hands, he is the head chef and his dishes focus on Mediterranean cuisine with a touch of an Asian influence. Every dish is a work of art.

Fresh fish is the main focus of this exquisite dining experience.

Les Pēcheurs is open seasonally from Tuesday to Saturday.

Related: Things to do in Montepulciano

Le Marche Provencal is a must-visit on a foodie tour of Antibes. | © Pat Bailey

 Marche Provencal

Marche Provencal is a must-visit spot in Antibes’ old town and the perfect spot to try some local delights.

Socca is one of those specialties. Traditional Socca is a chickpea pancake and the Socca Bar on Rue James Close is a great place to taste this local favorite in various ways including spring onion, anchovy, pancetta, saffron, and chorizo.

On the menu is a Socca Burger that is worth the visit.

Le Marche Provencal is open every day except for Monday.

In addition to these options, there are many cafes and casual spots for all types of food in Antibes including paella, pasta, and pizza, vegan and vegetarian, and global cuisine from all around the world.

The best plan is to wander the streets of Old Town and stop when the spirit moves you, there are plenty of sunny terraces and cozy, off-the-beaten-path options and I’ve never been disappointed with this plan.

More Travel Tips:

Visit these Stunning Beaches in Antibes

How to Spend 4 Days in Paris

Plan the Perfect Summer Trip to Malta

Wander the beautiful streets of Old Town Antibes of culinary finds. | © Pat Bailey

Pat Russo

Pat Russo is a Mystic, Muse, and Spiritual Teacher guiding women into their hearts with a journey of softening. She is a published poet, a lover of hearts, and a forever student.

Feeling the impossibility of choosing between her two favorite cities, she considers San Francisco and Paris home.

www.patricia-russo.com/

Pat Bailey

Perfectly glassy water in Cap d’Antibes France. | © Pat Bailey

Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel

Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel is situated near Port of Olivette and Plage des Ondes on the tip of Cap d’Antibes. It is a beloved and coveted spot to land. As its name suggests it is also one of the few French Riviera hotels with a private on-property sandy beach.  

At the beginning of the 20^th century, the property was referred to as “La Maison des Pêcheurs,” (the fishermen’s house); when large properties such as these stretched down to the sea and only a small unassuming path led curious wanderers to Cap d’Antibes.

A Baron owned the cape in those days. Today, local fishermen tell stories of how the Baron allowed fishermen to stay on the property in exchange for “bouillabaisse,” a local fish stew.

In 2003, the Ferrante family acquired the property. They have invested 3.5 million euros in renovations to bring the property back to life with the hope of welcoming international clientele looking for a luxurious spot to be on the coast in France.

In April of 2016, the property was redecorated with the addition of eight new rooms and suites. The single Michelin star restaurant that pays homage to the history and origin of the property named “Les Pêcheurs” was also given a new position, facing the sea.

There are so many things to love about this property. There is a seamless marriage of land and sea that is carried throughout the modern lines of the hotel through the skillful use of both wood and glass materials.

An intentional energy of creativity is also infused throughout the space. Both traveling and static pieces of multi-medium art fill the indoor and outdoor spaces with an ever-changing collection, such as Fernand Legé masterpieces.

And, if you fall in love with one of the pieces there is a good chance you may purchase it.

Related: Things to Do in Avignon France

Design-led spaces welcome guests at the Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel France. | © Pat Bailey

The hotel feels like a luxurious home from home. | © Pat Bailey

Beautifully thought out spaces have been created at the property. | © Pat Bailey

The Design Suite

My Design Suite room with a sea view was a welcome respite – easy to slip into as soon as I arrived.

The large private terrace with a sunbed for two offered the perfect place for sunbathing, star, and sea gazing throughout my stay. And the sea breeze was the perfect medicine as I left my sliding door open the entire stay.

Take your pick between a luxurious soak in the large bathtub or walk-in shower, the space is luxurious but cozy at the same time.

I got lost in the King-size bed with sea view and found that the ample closet, lounge, and desk spaces rivaled my tiny apartment in Paris in all of the most decadent ways.

Stay in of Venture Out

The property is situated in a popular spot for venturing out. Just a short distance to Juan Les Pins, Cannes, and even Antibes. However, there is plenty to do on-site that will appease you for the entirety of your stay.

The rare private sandy beach is an idyllic spot to land for an afternoon in the sun. The heated infinity pool and the deck is where I had a beautiful lunch and dip. And of course, the beach bar is a great spot for an apero before settling in for a meal at the coveted Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Pêcheurs.

Related: What to See in Paris in 4 Days

Wake up to magical water views in a Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel suite. | © Pat Bailey

Curated and cost nooks in the Design Suite. | © Pat Bailey

A beautifully appointed bathroom for two. © Pat Bailey

The Spa at Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel

Of course, no luxury hotel is complete without an opportunity for wellness and pampering. The spa at the hotel is very special with both indoor and open-air spaces for treatments.

The menu includes facials, manicures, pedicures, after sun skin treatments, and a variety of signature massages along with beauty treatments. In addition, private sessions of Qi Gong and Yin Yoga are available onsite.

First Class Service

One of my favorite things about my stay at this world-class hotel was how intimately the staff takes care of you. Because of the boutique size of the property, the staff quickly gets to know each guest. So, they make them feel special by keeping an eye on them, calling them by name, and checking in with special touches. My entire stay from start to finish was a curated experience and very special.

Related: Things to Do in Cap d’Antibes

Pat relaxes on her suite balcony at the Cap d’Antibes Hotel France. | © Pat Bailey

Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel

10, Boulevard Maréchal Juin, 06160 | +33 (0)4 92 93 13 30

Check Rates

Hotel Website

The postcard-worthy coastline at Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel France. | © Pat Bailey

Pat Russo

Pat Russo is a Mystic, Muse, and Spiritual Teacher guiding women into their hearts with a journey of softening. She is a published poet, a lover of hearts, and a forever student.

Feeling the impossibility of choosing between her two favorite cities, she considers San Francisco and Paris home.

www.patricia-russo.com/

Pat Bailey

On the way up to the Pope’s Palace in Avignon. | © Pat Bailey

Paris to Provence

It is wise to plot your trip based on what to see in Provence and what you personally want to experience because there are many beautiful little Provence villages to explore.

Because my trip was limited to a long weekend, and the lavender had already been harvested in other parts of the region (very important to check before you arrive).

I decided to stay in Avignon and journey beyond this town for the few days that I had to explore.

Provence is made special in part by its location: located in southeastern France it is lovingly held by the left bank of the Rhone River to the west and the Italian border to the east, with the Mediterranean Sea to the south and all of France to the North.

Because of its placement, it boasts diverse landscapes that include the Southern Alps and Campargue plains to rolling vineyards, olive groves, pine forests and the coveted Provence lavender fields beloved around the world.

The southernmost part of this region is where the “French Riviera” can be found; it is the Côte d’Azur where Nice, Saint Tropez and Cannes line the coast.

Related: What to See in Paris in Four Days

The Pope’s Palace in Avignon. | © Pat Bailey

Things to do in Avignon

Like other Medieval villages in the south of France, Avignon has a fairytale story and this story is part of its charm. There are so many things to do in Avignon; many are shaped by the rich history of the area.

Between the years 1309 and 1377, Catholic popes from Rome fled to Avignon and made it their home and in 1791 Avignon became part of France. When Italian popes flee to a village this leaves an impression on the village.

This legacy is the number one iconic stop in Avignon: the massive Palais des Papes or “Pope’s Palace” is a must-see when you visit.

Palais des Pape

The Palais des Papes is one of the largest and oldest Gothic buildings in all of Europe and one of the top things to do in Avignon. To give you an idea of its size, you can fit four Gothic cathedrals in this palace. Even if you only exploring Avignon in one day, visiting the Pope’s Palace is a must.

In the 14^th century this 25-room fortress and palace was the seat of Western Christianity, it is now an official UNESCO site. You can visit the palace every day from 10 am until 6 pm and tickets are between ten and twelve euros.

On this tour, you will learn about the nine popes that made the palace their home, including two during The Great Western Schism (1378-1417) who reigned from Avignon while the church was split in two. 

“If the walls could talk…” I’m certain they would tell grand tales of the things that were discussed and experienced here. You can feel the holiness and majesty when you visit. Be sure to make time for the rooftop garden, where you can take a beautiful panoramic photo of the area.

Pont Saint Bénézet

A close second to the palace is the world-famous Pont Saint Bénézet or “Pont d’ Avignon” as it is commonly called, with an equally romantic story.

It was built of wood originally between 1177 and 1185 by its namesake and he claimed that he was told by God to build the bridge that spanned the Rhône between Avignon and Villeneuve-lès-Avignon at the time.

The bridge has a long history of being destroyed and rebuilt, what stands now are four of the twenty-two original arches and an unfinished bridge that is the subject of much love in France; it is poetry.

Every child in France learns the famed song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon” written about this bridge.

Related: What a Luxury Barge Cruise in France is Really Like

The picturesque Pont Saint Bénézet, Avignon. Featuring its quaint chapel. | © Pat Bailey

Stroll the Avignon Streets

Before travelling beyond Avignon spend some time wandering within the walls of this village. Like most towns, you can find a variety of experiences depending on which rue you take.

Be sure to take a stroll down Rue des Teinturiers. This Instagrammable street contains the charming remnants of Avignon’s silk spinning and dying industry.

This includes four water-wheel mills, beautiful stone houses, cobblestone streets, and little bridges leading to shaded terraces which are perfect for an afternoon snack.

The Church of Saint-Agricol, Avignon. | © Pat Bailey

Avignon Museums

There are several notable museums in Avignon. These are your must-see museums:

Musée Calvet, a private collection turned public and open for 200 years contains a wide variety of art and artifacts including a sarcophagus.

Musée du Petit Palais which is the museum attached to the Palais des Papes and contains 327 paintings and 600 sculptures by Italian and French artists from the Gothic and Renaissance periods.

The Musée Angladon which houses the private collection of Jacques Doucet, a Parisian tailor who is regarded as one of the pioneers of fashion design during the turn of the century.

The collection includes Picasso’s Demoiselles d’Avignon and works by Degas, Sisley, Cézanne, Manet, Derain, and Modigliani, as well as the only Van Gogh painting hanging in Provence.

Related: How to Spend a Weekend in Amsterdam

Character-filled old town Avignon. | © Pat Bailey

History surrounds you in old town Avignon.| © Pat Bailey

Go Shopping in Avignon Les Halles

If you have an itch to do some antique shopping you can visit Avignon Les Halles where you will find forty merchants’ stalls every morning from Tuesday to Sunday. If you find yourself in Avignon on a Saturday you can visit Les Halles to watch demonstrations by local chefs, and if you are lucky you can taste one of their dishes.

Get a Tarot Reading

One unexpected and unique experience I found in Avignon was a stop into the little Tarot Creatif shop where you can meet owner Franck Battig who is passionate about Tarot.

He does personal readings and hosts weekly ‘apero’ events for visitors to learn more about his passion and this mystical world.

Stay Active in Avignon

The typical outdoor activities are available in Avignon: city hiking, cycling, local yoga, and even Qigong by the Rhône which I happened upon during my morning walk and castle-gazing.

Because of the river, there are many water sports available to visitors as well. However, one of the more unusual things to do in Avignon is to take out a SUP o to the river.

I spotted a couple on stand-up paddleboards and a small group in canoes venturing around Pont d’Avignon during a morning stroll. I cannot think of a more magical morning in Avignon than this.

Related: Things to do in Ghent, Belgium

Stay active with some SUP in Avignon looking at the Pope’s Castle and old town. | © Pat Bailey

Where to Stay in Avignon

There are only a few luxury Avignon hotels. Search some of those luxe stays on offer here.

Avignon, across from The Rabbit Cafe. | © Pat Bailey

Where to Eat in Avignon

Because of the number of visitors to the city, the range of Avignon restaurants is varied. The town has been catering to the tourists for years and this has resulted in options beyond the traditional French café and bistro.

Hygge

I was happy to discover Hygge during my visit, this cozy morning or lunch spot is “Une cantine bio” serving fresh vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options along with other healthy dishes.

It is located in the centre of Avignon, easy to find, and the perfect place to start your day or break for lunch while exploring.

The secret garden of Au Jardin des Carmes, Avignon. | © Pat Bailey

Au Jardin des Carmes

If “Top Chef” dining is what you are looking for, make your way to Au Jardin des Carmes, a charming and delicious spot for a garden terrace dinner. This Michelin Star restaurant serves delicious, gastro-forward dishes that are made with healthy, fresh, and local ingredients.

The tomato, basil, and mozzarella salad that I had was pure summer in a dish and the ambiance is really romantic, be sure to make a reservation and ask for the secret garden in the back of the restaurant. 

The menu, created by Justine Imbert daily is innovative, try the “tacos” her way if you find them on the menu when you visit.

Fou de Fafa

Fou de Fafa is another popular and delicious choice, this cozy restaurant is the passion project of a British couple Antonia Pyemont-Coughlan and Russell Coughlan.

It has a simple and delicious menu in a relaxed environment just around the corner from Musée Angladon.

Only open for dinner and a hard table to get in Avignon during high season, a reservation is strongly suggested or plan on being there for the first seating at 6:30 pm. The set menu consists of French dishes made with fresh, local ingredients.

Related: A Loire Valley Cruise

The gorgeous Le Lapin restaurant in old town Avignon. | © Pat Bailey

Le Lapin Blanc

Restaurant Le Lapin Blanc was the perfect spot for me to catch my breath after visiting Rue des Teinturiers. The shaded terrace is great for people watching and the salads are delicious for lunch.

Alternative Concept Store nearby is a unique boutique with vintage and new clothing along with a coffee café and tattoo parlour in the back, and you can have your first lavender gelato at their shop next door.

Stunning facades in old town Avignon. | © Pat Bailey

Day Trips from Avignon

Because of the limited time of my visit, I hired a local guide to help me navigate the surrounding area for the full day I had planned for outside of Avignon.

The central location of Avignon makes it quite possible for you to visit many different towns in one day. But, you will need to plan and it is important for you to have your own transportation; either a guide or a rented car.

Restaurant Philip on the banks of the Sorgue River, Vaucluse. | © Pat Bailey

Fountaine de Vaucluse

From Avignon, we made our way to explore more of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. We began with the largest natural spring in Europe which can be found in the town of Fountaine de Vaucluse nestled by at the base of a cliff and along the Sorgue River.

The spring which flows out of the 230-metre-high cliff can be hiked to by visitors. The spring is the most powerful in France and the fifth in the world.630 million cubic meters of water flow out of it every year.

A few other notable stops to consider when you visit: Restaurant Philip which can be found along the riverside hike. It provides the most beautiful terrace dining beside the river. This restaurant is also a Michelin Star restaurant and has been in this spot since 1926.

Be sure to wander to the Petraque Museum. Just behind it, you will also find a garden and rambling brooks with plenty of shade for a meditative stop and a beautiful photo.

It is best to visit Fountaine de Vaucluse early in the day to avoid the massive crowds that visit in the high season, and it is also cooler during the morning.

The view of Gordes, France. | © Pat Bailey

Gordes

Abbaye de Senanque

From Fountaine de Vaucluse, make your way to one of the most photographed spots in the area: the Abbaye de Senanque (Notre-Dame de Sénanque Abbaye).  There you will find the first Provence lavender fields of the day. These are also some of the “holiest” lavender in the region.

The Cistercians monks of this operating Abbaye tend to the lavender themselves. There is a gift shop inside where you can take some of it home with you.

You can also visit the ancient dormitory, the cloister, the chapter house, and the warming room for a small entrance fee. Visit on your own or with a guide.  The abbey is open Monday through Saturday (check the website for current hours before your visit as they change with the seasons).

The abbey is located in Gordes. This famous village is a must-see while you are close. It is home to many movie stars, artists, and celebrities. Gordes is perched above the valley on a rock foundation with contrasting white and grey stoned houses. At the very top is the church and castle which face out onto the hills of Luberon.

Often listed as “one of the most beautiful villages” in France, I can attest to its charm and beauty. Take your time here to wander the streets without a plan, taste the local homemade lavender ice cream and pop into the church.

The streets are narrow, the shops are charming and the café terraces are tucked away in shaded areas. You will never want to leave. If you love as much as I did, you can plan your stay here while you visit Provence as there are many charming hotels with terraced pools perched above the valley.

Related: The Ultimate South Iceland Road Trip

Pat Bailey exploring charming Roussillon. | © Pat Bailey

Roussillon

A poetic contrast to Gordes was my next stop. We travelled to the ochre-painted town of Roussillon full of the “colour of Provence.”

The deep red clay-coloured earth reminded me of Arizona back home in the United States. It is what the locals have used for centuries to make the stucco used to build everything.

Not only is this town another charming stop. But, it has the impressive claim of having the biggest ochre deposits in the world. The ochre cliffs are stunning, especially in contrast to the surrounding green pine tree forest.

You can hike to the cliffs and experience the other-worldly valley and quarries. It’s a unique landscape in Provence and one your Instagram will welcome in stunning photographs.

Many visitors grab things for a picnic in town and hike to the ochre cliff for a picnic in the shade.

Explore Roussillon the same way you would explore Gordes, with no plan and lots of wandering. Every street is a postcard waiting for you to walk into it.

This village has inspired many artists as a result. You can spy local artists capturing their paintings of the day on the spot, and visit many galleries full of local treasures.

The ochre buildings of Roussillon, France. | © Pat Bailey

Ochre cliffs in Roussillon France. | © Pat Bailey

The Secret Lavender Fields of Sault

One of the many benefits of hiring a local guide is that they likely know where the “secret” Provence lavender fields are. This was certainly the case with my guide the day that I visited.

The lavender fields near Sault were our next stop and they were more incredible than I could have ever imagined.

Depending on when you visit Provence, the lavender can be anywhere in its growing and harvest cycle. So, it is a good idea to check ahead of time if seeing the lavender in bloom is important to you.

My visit at the end of July meant that I missed the lavender in other areas. But in Sault, the lavender was at the end of bloom. On the day that I visited the harvest as it was being distilled. So I had the rare and beautiful opportunity to watch this process happen.

I found myself standing in the middle of 400 acres of lavender, nearly alone. It was the experience of a lifetime.

On the day that I visited the farm of Marc and Earl Cheyrias they were putting a harvest through the distillation process. Our guide took us to the facility so that we could watch (and smell).

It takes 1200 kilos of harvested lavender to make ten litres of lavender oil, and the harvested lavender steams for forty minutes each time. The process is a simple, time-tested, and generational process that this farm and family has been doing for decades. This lavender farm distributes lavender oil mostly in France, like many farms in Provence.

The breathtaking lavender fields of Sault, France. | © Pat Bailey

Sault 

The last stop on our Provence tour was a visit to the village of Sault. A beautiful, quiet spot to end our day-long adventure. Many visitors begin their ascent of Mount Ventoux from this tiny town.

Sault is also one of the main stops on the annual Lavender Tour organized by local distilleries. It is surrounded by breathtaking lavender fields, flushed with the blooming herb.

The town is simple and easy to navigate with the main square, a promenade, and many narrow streets for exploring.

I tried the tastiest lavender ice cream of the day here. I also wandered into the Romanesque church Notre Dame de la Tour which is beautiful.

Watching the lavender farmers at work in Sault, France. | © Pat Bailey

The Avignon lavender fields are a must-see to complete your fairytale Provence itinerary. Avignon is perfectly located to plan a long weekend adventure or to stay longer and explore. It is a town that has inspired me and one that I will return to again and again.

The perfect postcard setting in Avignon, France. | © Pat Bailey

Pat Russo

Pat Russo is a Mystic, Muse, and Spiritual Teacher guiding women into their hearts with a journey of softening. She is a published poet, a lover of hearts, and a forever student.

Feeling the impossibility of choosing between her two favorite cities, she considers San Francisco and Paris home.

www.patricia-russo.com/

Kerri McConnel

Kerri enjoys some time on the deck with the Captain of the Renaissance luxury French barge cruise. Image © Kerri McConnel

Loire Valley Tours on Our Luxury French Barge Cruise

The Renaissance cruise takes place in the canals of the Upper Loire and Burgundy regions, running down the border of two of the most well-known areas in France. They are, of course, known widely for two things; the first is wine. Both Burgundy and the Loire regions are at the heart of French wine regions. Their unique soil and other climatic conditions gives rise to some incredible, and very different, tasting wines. The Loire, is without a doubt, one of the more beautiful areas in all of France. Known for its château, there’s barely a moment that goes by where an incredibly ornate, and very old castle can’t be seen.

Whilst Loire Valley wine tours and châteaux tours form a strong part of the week-long adventures off the barge, there’s also a great array of other Loire day trips and activities to keep everyone interested.

Travel to and from all excursions are via the European Waterways private vehicle. It mirrors the cleanliness of the barge and provides transit in a spacious and comfortable manner. The air-conditioned vehicle has large windows allowing all guests to have a view and water is always supplied during and after the trips.

Related: The Renaissance: A Luxury Loire Valley Cruise in France

A private chateau that our tour guide slowed us via the back roads of the Loire Valley. Image © Kerri McConnel

A Private Tour Guide

All of our visits are guided by crew member, Matthew, an easy-going fellow with a penchant for history and telling stories. He has a manner in which he shares information of interest, without being boring, and without feeling as though we need to find a speedy exit for the closest door. His love for the role clearly shows, and it’s hard not to hold onto his every word. He gives everyone enough time to stop and take photos, to admire a painting or to read a signboard. He moved us along when he had too without being overbearing or pushy. Overall, his style meant that we enjoyed every single place we visited, and everything we heard. 

He was also happy to stop for a few “surprise” visits to some of his latest finds, like a 10th-century church in a town boasting a population of around 300 people, or taking the back road to check out yet another glorious château.

Related: The Renaissance: Gourmet Dining on a Loire Valley Barge Cruise

The incredible Château de Fontainebleau was one of a handful of chateau tours we took during our barge cruise. Image © Kerri McConnel

Château de Fontainebleau

Our week starts off with a visit to Fontainebleau, a city about 68 kilometres south of Paris and home to not one but two areas of interest. The Forêt de Fontainebleau, a huge forest once the playground of royalty, is now a key attraction for rock climbers, hikers and those who love the great outdoors.  Its 280 square kilometres of greenery completely surrounds one of the most prestigious castles, the Château de Fontainebleau.

The Château de Fontainebleau is equally impressive, with rich history and yet it receives only a portion of the annual visitors the more widely known Palace of Versailles receives. This is to our advantage, with smaller crowds, there’s more time to move about the palace admiring as much as you can. Dating back to at least 1137, the first recorded reference to the château, it is the only château to have been continuously occupied by members of the royal family for eight centuries. Through the Renaissance years in the 1500’s through to the 18th century, kings, queens and other members of French royalty lived here, making their own changes to a building that began as a hunting lodge and became an ever-growing palace. 

Stunning details inside Château de Fontainebleau. Image © Kerri McConnel

The years were tough on the château at Fontainebleau and during the French Revolution, the furniture was removed and sold. Having been bought and sold many times, including by the French military, and occupied by the Germans during World War Two, the mainstream restoration was undertaken by President Charles de Gaulle in the mid to late 1960’s. The château was included as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1981. Despite the furniture being removed in the late 1700’s, the furniture seen here today is still hundreds of years old. Its opulence is a sight to behold, particularly in an age where this type of excess and richness is rarely on display outside of such unique properties.

The throne room at Chateau fontainebleau. Image © Kerri McConnel

To see this château in its entirety would take days. We were fortunate to be able to spend a little time here, looking through some of the more important rooms of the house, and getting a taste of what life would have been within its walls.

A Colonel French military waiting for guests at the French Military School of Horse Riding. Image © Kerri McConnel

French Military School of Horse Riding

Close by the gates of the Fontainebleau, a very special tour had been prepared for us. A colonel in the French Army waited for us. A passionate horseman he was to be our guide as we made our way around the French Military School of Horse Riding. 

Whilst this tour is available once a month, it is little-known to most visitors to the area. The crew of the Renaissance work in and around these local areas, building relationships with people and businesses, which in turn provide special access to the guests on board the barge. It’s not the first time we will see this happen during the week, and we are grateful for the unique opportunities European Waterways provides.

Looking almost like a second-hand store or the back of a farmer’s shed, we visited the museum with all manner of horse memorabilia, much of it from the war years. Dummies wear the uniforms of old, whilst saddles of various kinds compete for space with horseshoes and even an entire horse skeleton. As the Colonel takes us through this and other areas like the blacksmith’s foundry, and the medical quarters, his passion is obvious. He is particularly keen for us to learn how they repatriate and provide jobs for war-wounded soldiers. When he talks about the high number of women employed “because they have such an understanding of horses” and of the French team, including soldiers, winning medals in the equestrian events at the Rio de Janeiro Olympics in 2016, his pride is palpable. When he takes us to the stables, where his personal horse “Estella” and others live, his love for the horses is immediately tangible. We can see they love him too.

The tour of the military school is unusual but totally unique. It’s the type of travel experience that we regularly seek out and to have it provided as part of a barge cruise was unexpected.

Related: Cruising the Canal du Midi: A Luxury Barge Cruise in France

The gorgeous Château de La Bussiere in the Loire Valley, France. Image © Kerri McConnel

Château La Bussiere

Not every château can reach the heights of those like Fontainebleau. In fact, many of them scattered throughout France and Europe, lie in private hands. Those who live within the ancient walls, have usually inherited them, as they pass down through the generations, or buy them in private treaties. Whichever the case, government funding does not apply, leaving those who own them to do so at entirely their own cost. Privately owned or otherwise, though often aesthetically different, their similarity lies in their history. 

Château de La Bussiere has been continuously inhabited for nine centuries, a stunning fact when you consider the more famous Fontainebleau was only eight. Originally a fortress, this smaller castle is surrounded by a lake that once upon a time would have fed into the moat, one of the castle’s security strongholds. In 1814, the Chasseval family owned the castle and have handed it down to their descendants ever since. Access to ten furnished rooms is provided to the public. This lesser known location often sees more school children than the likes of us, but that doesn’t make it any less interesting. In fact, it makes it more so.

The manicured gardens of Château de La Bussiere in the Loire Valley, France. Image © Kerri McConnel

The kitchen is my favourite part of the castle, with the old auger stove that once would have provided heating for many of the surrounding rooms. I could easily imagine the shiny copper pots hanging on the wall being used to prepare the meals and generous lashings of it all being served on the crockery that now adorns the central wooden table. Most unusually, the castle is home to a strange collection of fishing items and eccentric art pieces, like the fish suspended from the ceiling over a staircase. The grounds are also home to an extensive vegetable garden known as one of the most beautiful in France.

Related: The Perfect Long Weekend Guide to Paris

Visiting the Gien crockery factory in Gien, France. Image © Kerri McConnel

Visiting the Gien Crockery Factory

This was such a great visit, despite it being something that we normally wouldn’t consider. This is the beauty of the barge holiday once again. The excursions are planned to offer variety, fun and a unique experience, catering to a broad group of people with varied interests.

The Gien crockery factory was founded in 1821. The location was chosen due to the proximity to three of the key ingredients for making pottery: sand, water and wood. All of which could be found in the nearby Loire River or forest. As we also know from our time on the canals, the Loire River and canals were an integral part of the transportation network.

Today, all the history of over 200 years of making vases, dinnerware and incredible collections is continued. Products and designs are used that reflect the current trends of the day, taking inspiration from those around, whilst keeping the processes of making them true to its origins.

Here we saw how the crockery is made from a piece of clay, through the production lines, quality checking and the most amazing of all, the hand painting. The Gien crockery is now a mix of both hand painted and stencilled artwork. To the human eye, there is little to tell the two apart, save for a signature under the pieces that are hand painted.

It’s an expensive product to buy, but when you see the process and effort that goes into making these pieces, it’s easy to attribute such value.

Visiting the locals markets in Gien, France. Image © Kerri McConnel

The Gien Markets

Every French village has a local market of some kind. The market business is culturally strong here, with locals making regular pilgrimages either daily, bi-weekly or weekly to buy their fresh produce, cheese, meats and fish. 

For the guests onboard the Renaissance, we stop by the Gien local markets, tagging along with the barge’s chef, Hannah. Hannah takes us on a tour of her favourite vendors, stopping to pick up products to be used back on the barge for our meals. In between orders, she provides us with samples of local sausage, cheese, seafood and fresh fruit.

It wouldn’t be a food market in France if we didn’t get to taste and the vendors here are more than willing to cut you off a slice of something in order to convince you to buy it. Oftentimes, they are such lovers of food that they are happy just to see your reaction as you bite on a piece of smelly blue cheese, or swallow down a sea-snail. The highlight of our personal visit to the market was seeing the food Hannah bought on our plates on the lunch buffet.

Eglise de Montbouy

We moored near this church overnight, so our first stop in the morning before things got underway was a visit here with our Captain, Hadrien. In a way that only small villages in France can operate, he first got the key off the local village Mayor, allowing us private entry into the church. The various building styles (Roman, Gothic)  support the fact that is was built, and added to, over many centuries. Inside, incredible stained glass windows, built during two distinct eras is immediately evident.

Château de Ratilly was Kerri’s favourite of the Loire Valley chateau tours offered. Image © Kerri McConnel

Château de Ratilly

Châteaude Ratilly rounded out our visits to castles and it couldn’t have been any further away from the glitz and glamour of the first at Fontainebleau. As much as I loved visiting all of them, it was the simple Château de Ratilly that I adored.

Built in the late 1200’s, it was lived in, bought and sold by families of nobility until notably, in 1951, the castle is bought by private owners Jeanne and Norbert Pierlot. Together they formed a pottery enclave, complete with workshop, where they made practised their own craft and developed it as a cultural hub for others to do the same.

This is a château that most wouldn’t get to see. It’s in its most raw form; with bedrooms put together in a somewhat mangled configuration, basic bedding, and many of them having to share a bathroom down the hall. 

The inhabited Château de Ratilly in the Loire Valley. Image © Kerri McConnel

A bedroom, in an almost secret hiding place in the attic, would be the place to be on a dark stormy night as lightning dances about on the castle’s tower visible from the room’s only window.

It’s been retrofitted with electricity, so at least the days of finding your way up flights of spiral staircases with only a candle to light your way now behind them.

We were delighted to meet Nathalie, one of the Pierlot’s daughters, who has carried on the pottery tradition.  In a heartbeat, she pulled out some clay and created first a vase, then a jug in front of our ever watchful gaze.  Another masterpiece to add to a growing storage area of pottery. 

The family has a strong community spirit, running exhibitions and music workshops at the château during the year.

Nathalie, one of the Pierlot’s daughters doing pottery demonstration at Chateau de Ratilly. Image © Kerri McConnel

Wine Tasting in the Loire Valley

Wine tastings can be fantastic. They can also be a bit ho-hum, especially if you’ve been to a few.  Fortunately, the winery we visited has been carefully selected to ensure both enjoyment of the winery tour and the tasting. As the corks were taken out of no less than 11 bottles of Henri Bourgeois’ finest, employee Jean-Michel told us how the terroir (soil) in the Sancerre area had a significant impact on the flavour and cellaring times of their pinot noir and Sauvignon blanc wines. In the 1950’s Henri Bourgeois started in this area with only a few vines, growing and producing as “it was cheaper than drinking water”. Today, they are the biggest family winery in the area. Our visit to the winery ended with a trip into the town of Sancerre.

Learning about Sancerre in France. Image © Kerri McConnel

Cycling in the Loire Valley

Good quality bicycles are provided to allow guests to ride alongside the barge on the towpath, or to go for a jaunt into the smaller villages that we pass during cruising. The rides are easy and the barge doesn’t go very fast so it’s virtually impossible to get lost or left behind. 

Related: 5 of the Best Hikes in Norway

Cycling in the Loire Valley is famous. Bikes are available onboard for riding on land. Image © Kerri McConnel

Live Music

Entertainment in the form of a saxophone player and singer provided an evening of difference. The saxophone player considered himself to be a bit of a dancer, actively encouraging the guests to get up and dance with him. I obliged, whilst others did their best to look busy with their phones. It was a little tricky doing ballroom type dancing that I am not at all accustomed to, nor good at, but it was a chance to have a laugh and some fun. 

Live music onboard the Renaissance luxury barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

Sunset from the hot tub of the Renaissance luxury barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

Hot Tub

It doesn’t get much more decadent than to have a hot tub at your ready. During summer it’s a little warm to be jumping into 37 degrees Celsius. In reality, it’s probably not much better getting into it in the evening when it is only marginally cooler. However, with a hot tub on board, there was every chance you’d find me in it at some stage. With a (plastic) glass of French sparkling in our hands, we indulged on several evenings. It was a great way to finish off the day.

Walking the Gien markets with Chef Hannah. Image © Kerri McConnel

Cooking Lesson

Activities don’t just occur off the boat, they can happen onboard also. Midway through the week, Chef Hannah invited the guests into her kitchen, so give us a lesson on how to prepare artichokes. 

Most of the guests had either previously eaten them out of a can, or frozen, or not at all.  They are a vegetable that no-one ever seems to know a lot about.  Many find them difficult to cook with.  Hannah’s plan was to take the mystique away from this weird-looking vegetable. Through a series of steps, she showed us how to trim the hard leaves from the outside, squeeze it so we could differentiate between the hard and soft parts of the centre, take the heart out and get it ready to bake. The filling was a savoury farci and topped with cheese and then baked slowly in an oven.  It was served with an aioli  and a chilli, tomato sauce.

Read more of what we ate during our Loire Valley cruise

The vines of Sancerre, France. Image © Kerri McConnel

Pétanque

“It’s Australia vs France”, the barge’s captain, Hadrien calls out to us.  We’d just come off the boat and into the local park alongside our mooring spot for the night  We’d challenged Hadrien and our trusty tour guide Matthew to a game of pétanque.

The crew had mentioned to us that Hadrien took his pétanque very seriously, and judging by his call, it seemed like he meant business. He explained that pétanque, a game loved by the French, was usually played with a glass of pastis in your hand, and a lot of yelling.  With a drink in our hand and a reputation for being quite loud and quite competitive, it appeared as though the scene was well and truly set. The race to seven was hard-fought, to-ing and fro-ing, until I’m pleased to say, the Aussies won. That aside, it’s a great way to relax and a great example of the types of activities that can be done even though you are holidaying on the water.

Like anything on board the Renaissance, the daily activities are purely optional. Guests can go to all or opt in and out as they please. If you are looking for a holiday that provides both the opportunity to relax with a great mix of activities then a week aboard this luxury barge is a perfect choice. 

The Fit Traveller was a guest of the Renaissance, European Waterways and Barge Lady Cruises for this luxury French barge cruise. The opinions, words and images are authentically our own.

The Renaissance

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Kerri McConnel

Kerri McConnel is the owner of travel blog Beer and Croissants.

A world away from the frantic corporate life she once lead, Kerri now chases her travel dreams with her husband.

Often in a motorhome, they love seeking out unique travel experiences that always include great food and wine.

www.beerandcroissants.com/

Kerri McConnel

Mixed asparagus with parma ham, poached egg and hollandaise sauce for breakfast on the Renaissance. Image © Kerri McConnel

Fresh, Local Loire Valley Cuisine

A Casual Breakfast

The smell of fresh coffee permeates the corridor outside our cabin on the lower deck. Despite not liking coffee, it’s that familiar sign that breakfast is calling us. Upstairs, the crew are busy bringing delicious items out of the kitchen that will keep us nourished until our midday meal. There is so much food served on board the Renaissance that snacking is not a word that is ever spoken nor thought of. It’s that time of day when we know we have to pull ourselves away from the luxury of our cabins and join the other guests upstairs in the saloon. 

Breakfast is an informal affair, served mostly in a buffet style with the option for a hot dish that changed daily. We learned on the first morning that the small blackboard behind the bar told the story of our upcoming meal. It became the first port of call each day as our curiosity got the better of us, anxious to find out what food delights would be coming our way.

Related: The Renaissance: A Luxury Loire Valley Cruise in France

The perfect setting for a casual meal with a view. Image © Kerri McConnel

Over the course of the week, we had eggs in every form. They came softly poached with a delicate hollandaise sauce drizzled over the top, lightly scrambled with a serve of smoked salmon, and as omelettes filled with soft cheese and ham.

On other occasions, pancakes and French toast added a touch of decadence. All hot dishes are cooked to order should you wish to include these in your breakfast ritual.  If you are keen on having the same kind of breakfast each day, like scrambled eggs, for example, the chef on board is more than accommodating.

In addition, each breakfast buffet included a selection of beautiful charcuterie, French cheese, fresh fruits, yoghurt and nuts. No French breakfast is complete without the appearance of croissants and we were spoilt with a selection of these and other pastries, acquired each day from a local boulangerie.

In hindsight, I didn’t eat as many croissants as I would have liked. My addiction was forced to make way for an abundance of food and clearly, only one stomach.  With so much on offer, you need to pace yourself. After all, the day is still young at this point.

Related: Cruising the Canal Du Midi: A Luxury Barge Cruise France

Chef Hannah prepping the artichoke for a cooking class onboard the Renaissance luxury barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

The Luxury Barge Kitchen

As we continued with our day and departed on a day trip, or made the difficult decision as to which deck chair we want to sit on outside, the kitchen never stopped. At the rear of the saloon, Chef Hannah plans, prepares and executes all of the food eaten on this barge from an area approximately three metres by three metres. 

We spent some time in here, in Hannah’s stainless steel food headquarters, learning more about her style of cooking and the food being prepared. As people who enjoy our food, including learning, shopping, cooking and eating it, the ability to spend this time with the chef is an intangible benefit.  It’s an experience that sets apart these small, intimate barge cruises from the larger riverboats and cruise ships. 

Fresh, colourful sole chablisienne. Image © Kerri McConnel

Mimosa with leek poached egg and vinaigrette. Image © Kerri McConnel

Delicious and fresh Caprese salad on the Renaissance luxury barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

French Cooking Lesson

The artichokes sat on the main preparation bench in the kitchen awaiting our arrival. These prehistoric looking vegetables have been the subject of many a cook’s terror as they have tried to convert them from something unwieldy into something more edible. 

Stories of previous attempts and subsequent failures flew about the kitchen as Hannah showed us step by step how to trim down the artichoke. “Artichokes are known as the rich man’s vegetable”, Hannah chimed in, “because so much of it gets cut off and thrown away”. As the heart of the artichoke is scooped out, one of the guests leant over to his wife and stated “that’s why yours were so hard to eat, you left the heart in”. As it arrives at its final state, a little smaller and with a large hole in the centre, we all realised we’ve been taught a good lesson. All that was left was to stuff the artichoke and bake it ready to be served for our lunch.

Related: 48 Hours in Copenhagen: A Local’s Guide

Freshly baked artichoke ready for the tasting thanks to Chef Hannah. Image © Kerri McConnel

The Leisurely Lunch on the Barge

Lunch is served on the stone table outside on the deck, taking full advantage of the stunning French weather. Mirroring the French colours of red white and blue, our 39-metre luxury barge cruises slowly through the canals, as we sit back and relax over lunch for several hours.

Each day the table settings changed and we admired the handiwork of the hostesses who seem to also have a degree in origami, such is the styling of a simple paper napkin. Against a backdrop of smooth waters, stone villages and countryside, we indulged in this daily ritual with a mutual sense of satisfaction and amazement.

We eagerly awaited the arrival of a hostess, a telling sign that our first wine lesson of the day was about to begin. We travelled, viticulturally speaking, through the vineyards of Saumur, Sancerre, Bordeaux and Burgundy, to name but a few, as we heard of the myths and legends surrounding many of their origins. Mostly we learned about the various factors that influence a wine’s taste and what we should expect once our glass was filled.

We sniffed each glass, searching for the flavours of fresh berries as our hostess intimated we might find. We swirled the reds around in our glass, waiting for the aromas to rise, and allowing our palates to determine whether it was a hint of berries, violets or chestnuts that we could taste.

We tasted and drank, learning about these wines and trying ever so hard to identify a favourite amongst them all.  The wines are carefully matched to the food you eat.

Lunches were served as a mix of buffets or a more formal plated option. On the day we joined the chef at the Gien markets, it made perfect sense to bring together the fresh produce Hannah had brought home from her favourite local vendors.

We helped add to Hannah’s ingredients through a selection of cheese and other fruit and vegetables that we all agreed we would like to eat. There were some that never made it back to the barge however as we all sat huddled around Hannah eating ripe, red and very delicious strawberries straight from the punnet.

Cheese was always served as a course with lunch onboard the Renaissance luxury hotel barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

Cheese was always served as a course with lunch. Chèvre, or goat’s cheese, in varying forms was perhaps the most dominant cheese to be eaten all week, a certain link to its presence in this region. 

We loved the days where we cruised in the afternoon when our wine glasses were continually topped up and lunch covertly blended into the afternoon.

On a number of occasions, our dinner timing was pushed out a little owing to a later than expected return from a day excursion. This supported the flexible arrangements that exist on this barge that allow for some movement of timelines as required. On a cruise that extols the virtues of slow travel, an aggressive timeline would erode this feeling. 

Related: Fork in Hand Food Tour of Helskini

Quail cooked in red wine with herbed polenta. Image © Kerri McConnel

Fresh loin of pork on local greens. Image © Kerri McConnel

The Formal Dinner

It was as though we were part of a progressive dining event, as dinner moved back inside the saloon each evening, and to a more formal setting. Dinner time was always a great chance to relive the day, speaking of our favourite moments and places. It was also a time to chat with the other guests over a glass of wine and more fabulous food. 

Our food dreams were met early in the week when a duck breast, cooked tenderly using the sous vide method, arrived with braised red cabbage, caramelised apples and a tingly pepper sauce. Veal roulades, lamb loin, quail, fish and incredible beef added variety to the protein served each day. Each plate of food was introduced by the chef as the courses kept on coming. Desserts, always wonderful in France came in the form of citron tarts, cheesecake, chocolate mousse, baked fruit and apple and rhubarb crumble. The vanilla panna cotta with berries was a standout although it had very tough competition. 

Related: Our Love Affair With Norway in 20 Beautiful Photos

The desserts on the barge included citron tarts, cheesecake, chocolate mousse, baked fruit and apple and rhubarb crumble. Image © Kerri McConnel

A Well Planned Menu

With so much local Loire Valley cuisine to be eaten during the week, it’s important for harmony between the food served and the usual eating regime of the guests. Hannah’s menu shows perfect balance, with rich desserts offset by fresh fruit, or a cream entrée followed by a more subtle main. The meal sizes are not excessive and you can always opt out of something by simply having a conversation with the chef. No one forces you to eat anything here that you don’t want or like, but it is a great opportunity to try foods not usually on your radar. Cheese was once again a feature, and we took the journey willingly, exploring the gamut of strong smelly cheeses through to those a little milder in taste.

Related: Quiet Side of Ibiza

Another beautiful formal table on the Renaissance barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

A Special Dining Experience

Although the food on board is fantastic, we are also treated to a special dining experience at the one-starred Michelin restaurant, Auberge des Templiers. Located in a small village, about 30 minutes drive from where we were moored for the evening in La Gazonne, the 12th-century coaching inn set the scene for a night of culinary excellence.

Auberge des Templiers is one of only eight luxury hotels originally founded in 1954 under the association banner, Relais and Châteaux. Today, there are over 550 hotels all over the world who belong to this association.

Key attributes include having a unique location or offering, a luxurious five-star hotel and a gastronomic dining experience. Looking more like it belongs on the French/German border of the Alsace region, Auberge des Templiers delivers on all of these and more.

Over a six-course degustation, we enjoyed all the flavours, textures and artistry of food prepared by a Michelin starred chef, in the dining room of an old-world building. It’s a true foodie experience, heightened by the detail of the food that is placed before us.

Matched with both red and white wines, the more formal six-course meal is extended with the addition of amuse-bouche, various entremets (the palate cleansers between courses) and mignardises, the small petit fours.

Served at the end just as we felt we could not possibly eat any more, our hostess was keen to ensure we sampled a number of the delicate items from her trolley. A few macarons, tuiles and nougats later and it was finally time to call it a night.

The food on board the Renaissance is a standout. If you love food like us, every part of the food process is a great experience. If you are not a foodie but love eating food, then you’ll also find great pleasure here. Even better, if you love eating but don’t like cooking and cleaning up, then this is the perfect experience for you also.

Whatever your thoughts on food, two things are clear. You will never be hungry and you will always have an incredible dining experience. Having your food cooked for you is truly luxurious. To be able to eat and enjoy it on the European Waterways flagship barge the Renaissance takes it to another level entirely.

The Fit Traveller was a guest of the Renaissance, European Waterways and Barge Lady Cruises for this cruise. The opinions, words and images are authentically our own.

The vanilla panna cotta with berries was a standout dessert on the Renaissance luxury barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

Fresh, local gourmet delights delivered for every meal on the luxury Renaissance barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

The Renaissance

Loire Valley Barge Cruise

Book with Barge Lady Cruises

Website | Check Availability

Kerri McConnel

Kerri McConnel is the owner of travel blog Beer and Croissants.

A world away from the frantic corporate life she once lead, Kerri now chases her travel dreams with her husband.

Often in a motorhome, they love seeking out unique travel experiences that always include great food and wine.

www.beerandcroissants.com/

Kerri McConnel

A Loire river cruise on the Renaissance offers the ultimate luxury slow travel experience. Image © Kerri McConnel

Barge Holidays in France: A Loire Valley Cruise

Slow Travel in Style

Life aboard a luxury barge is the ultimate nod to slow travel. Doing it in France on a barge like the Renaissance elevates it to another very special level. A Loire barge cruise promises medieval villages and a patchwork of agricultural land that pull you into their daily life, each day.

Grapevines, corn and bright yellow sunflowers danced in the breeze under the powder blue sky. 10th-century churches, lock houses and chateaux passed us by in a seemingly endless display of ancient beauty. As we cruised, ever so slowly, along the canals, stopping to pass through countless locks, it felt as though we’d travelled far.

Everything slows down on canal barge holidays. It removes any thoughts or actions of our usually busy lives and creates this beautiful, positive and mellow state of mind. We had nowhere else to be so it allows you to really live in the moment and take some time out.

In reality, the Renaissance only covers a little over 52 kilometres (32 miles), something you could drive in a heartbeat. It’s the best way of explaining the life on a canal cruise in France is not about how much you can see in a day but rather how much you can soak it all up and savour every moment.

The hardest questions you might be faced with aboard the Renaissance is what drink you would like or when you’d like to eat. It’s a tough life, but someone has to do it, right?

“I could quite easily just sit here all day watching the scenery go by”, one of the American guests onboard says out loud. Their inner thoughts met with a murmur of agreement from all of us, as we lounged on the deck chairs in the French sunshine.

Completely pampered for seven days and six nights, the only negative about our time onboard the Renaissance was that eventually, like all guests, we had to leave.

Related: The Renaissance: Gourmet Dining on a Loire Valley Barge Cruise

Kerri settling in on the Renaissance luxury barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

The Renaissance Luxury Hotel Barge

The Renaissance is the flagship hotel barge in the European Waterways fleet. Built in 1957, she was restored into a luxury barge in 1997. Her former life as a hardworking transportation vessel carrying cereals and grains is now a distant memory. 

These barges are engineering works of art and provide a fascinating insight into the history of boat building. They are designed specifically to navigate through the shallow and narrow canals. The lock system in France adds complexity by being built differently.

The Canal du Midi, where we cruised aboard the Savannah last year, for example, is smaller than the canals of central France. All barges are built to the size of the canals they will be working on. This became evident at the locks.

Measuring nearly 39 metres long (128 feet) and 5.02 metres wide (16.4 feet), this is where our captain, Hadrien, showed off his skills. The locks on our canals were only 5.20 metres wide. With this 250 tonne beast under his control, Hadrien moved the Renaissance through the canals with only centimetres to spare.

There’s no room for error and definitely no room to stick your head out to get a closer look.

For all of her heavy-duty exterior, the Renaissance becomes more delicate and sophisticated inside. With no gunnels running down the outside, all of the width of the barge is taken up with living areas and the sense of space is immediately tangible. 

The spaciousness of the communal areas both inside and outside provide the opportunity for guests to take some time out away from others. Or, they can take respite in the air-conditioned comfort of the saloon when the temperatures rise outside.

The Renaissance barge cruise through the Loire Valley snakes up the Canal de Briare. Image © Kerri McConnel

Where in France Does the Barge Cruise Go?

Barge holidays in France often commence in Paris. In this case, all guests assemble at a predetermined meeting point, often a hotel. A private transfer then whisked us away to our starting village of Montargis, a two-hour drive from Paris.

Depending on which week you travel, the cruise will either commence in Montargis or in Châtillon-Sur-Loire and will either go up or down the canal. Wherever you start, the crew will be waiting to serve you that first wonderful glass of French champagne.

The Renaissance cruises two canals along the border of the Loire Valley and Burgundy (Bourgogne). Our cruise departed from Montargis and ended in Châtillon-sur-Loire, via Montbouy, Rogney-Sept-les-Écluses, La Gazonne and Briare.

Whilst we travelled along two canals, most of the week is spent on the Canal de Briare. This canal is approximately 45 kilometres (28 miles) and connects our starting town of Montargis with Briare.  The final stretch on the Canal Latéral à la Loire takes us only 7.2 kilometres (4.2 miles) until the final destination at Châtillon-Sur-Loire.

The incredible Palace of Fontainebleau is one of three chateaux you visit during the Renaissance Loire cruise. Image © Kerri McConnel

Loire Valley Activities: Highlights of our Barge Cruise

• No Loire Valley cruise or visit to the Loire region would be complete without seeing at least one chateau. We were indeed spoilt, with visits to three chateaux. Without a doubt, the fanciest was Château de Fontainebleau, but of equal value were the privately-owned Château de la Bussière and Château de Ratilly.
• A very special tour of the French Military horse stables at Fontainebleau, led by a working Colonel.
• A private tour of a vineyard and a very generous and inspired wine tasting in the Sancerre.
• Visiting the Gien pottery factory and store.
• Local market shopping with the chef.
• Mooring for the night near the historical Rogney-Sept-Les-Ecluses locks.
• The grand finalẻ, cruising over the Briare Aqueduct made famous by Frenchman Gustav Eiffel.

Related: Cruising the Canal du Midi: A Luxury Barge Cruise in France

Delicious welcome cocktails thanks to the wonderful crew on board the Renaissance luxury barge, France. Image © Kerri McConnel

The Crew

You’ve boarded your luxury barge, full of excitement about the week that lays ahead. You’ve read the brochures, perhaps done a little online research and you’ve got a general idea of the types of activities you will be involved in. It’s the reason after all that you decided to book the Renaissance.

Your week, in essence, has been set up perfectly. This is certainly true, and when you come aboard this barge, the aesthetics are instantly comforting. You know you’ve made the right choice. 

However, that’s only part of the prize. A barge can be as beautiful as she wants but without the hospitality, knowledge, personality and overall generosity of the crew, it’s simply that. Just a beautiful barge.

The crew makes (or breaks) the cruise, in our opinion. Thankfully, when you book the Renaissance, you are booking with a team of professionals. Down to earth, engaging and with plenty of stories to tell, they are the centre of the barge’s operations and the people who will create a week of magic for you. In the background, everything just gets done.

You don’t see it happening, you aren’t necessarily aware of what’s going on, but each and every moment aboard the Renaissance is coordinated and executed to ensure maximum pleasure for the guests. They do everything so you don’t have to. This is what true luxury travel is all about.

Whilst for some people, like us, having others waiting on your all the time can feel uncomfortable at first, others book these types of cruises expecting that level of service. They come on board to be pampered, well-watered and fed, and do not have to worry about how to get from point A to point B. Absolutely everything is taken care of for you without question.

Hostesses Carla and Claire work together like old friends attending to your every need, even when you don’t think you have one. They are ever-present and yet simultaneously hidden. Guests are provided with exceptional service, anticipating their every need, without ever feeling as though they are in your way. 

They will serve you tea at your required hour or put ice in your glass because they know you like it that way. For me, they’d pop a glass of bubbly in my hand just because they know I would appreciate one. 

They are the little fairies who leave chocolates on your pillow at night, remember that you like sparkling water over the still variety and stay up long after you’ve called it a night to make sure that everything is ready for your breakfast in the morning.

Matthew, one of the five crew on the Renaissance has truly found his calling and the guests are the grateful recipients. With a degree in transportation and logistics planning in his back pocket, Matthew now splits his time on the Renaissance between being a deckhand and tour guide. “I love spending seven months of the year in the middle of nowhere”, Matthew said to me during one of our chats. 

When cruising, he is the eyes and ears of the captain, who uses Matthew’s guidance to steer the barge through the tight locks. When it’s time for the guests to go on the daily excursion, Matthew’s greatest prowess comes to the fore. Matthew has a great love of history and loves to share his learnings onto the guests.

Whether it be a famous (or not so famous) chateau, a tiny 10th-century church in a minuscule village, or a pottery factory, Matthew enchants everyone with his stories and his depth of knowledge.

The kitchen tucked away at the back of the barge is the fiefdom of Chef Hannah. Hannah, a British-born former hairdresser, told me that she “developed a passion for food and French cooking, so went to school in France and learned how to be a chef”. 

As each dish is served, Hannah comes to the table to explain exactly what it is that we are eating. We always used this opportunity to gain a little more insight into how Hannah had prepared the meal.

Finally, Hadrien, Parisian-born and now a resident of Lyon in the south of France, rounds out the crew as the captain and leader of the barge. Young and engaging, Hadrien has oversight of everything that occurs on board the Renaissance, ensuring the guests are happy and that everything is going to plan. 

He also has what might seem like an arduous task to many of keeping the Renaissance in the right part of the canal at all times. His “wheelhouse” sits at the back, a long way from the front of the barge. 

He navigates this large vessel via two mirrors, one on each side of him or by watching the hand signals of Matthew when moving through locks or mooring. 

On many occasions, the barge passes underneath low overhead bridges, requiring Hadrien to duck as he cruises under them. It only takes a little bit of time spent with Hadrien to realise what an amazing job he does.

The cabins onboard the Renaissance are huge; featuring a king-size bed, full-sized bathroom and plenty of space for bags. Image © Kerri McConnel

Taking a Tour of the Renaissance

The Cabins

“Wow!” This was the first thing I said as I walked through the door of our cabin, feet sinking in the plush grey-blue carpet. I couldn’t believe the size of it. Expecting a cabin half this size, I swanned around in here all week, never tiring of the luxury of having this incredible amount of space around us. 

This is a key feature of the Renaissance, where complete consideration has been given to ensuring that all guests have spacious cabins as well as spacious living areas.

Four cabins accommodate a maximum of eight guests. The cabins, all named after the French writers Dumas, Moliere, Voltaire and Hugo, are located on the lower deck, accessible by internal stairs.  The number of guests has been deliberately restricted to eight in order to be able to provide larger than average cabins. 

The strategy paid off as the feeling of space that a 235 square feet (almost 21.5 square metres) cabin provides most definitely enhanced our time onboard, and the other guests regularly mentioned this.

All cabins have a head height of approximately 6”6’. In fact, one of them mentioned that their last cruise, aboard a much larger ship, had a cabin so small they needed to take turns getting out of bed. There was simply no room for both to be up at once.

Two of the four cabins are also slightly larger at 265 square feet (24.5 square metres). Moliere and Voltaire, located at both ends of the cabins, extend from one side of the barge to the other, providing access to views via the portholes on both sides.

This is slightly different from the two centre cabins, which only extend as far as the internal stairs on one side, meaning there are only natural light portholes on one side.

A king-size bed, beautifully decorated with soft cushions, pillows and soft pastel linen sets the scene as soon as you walk through the door. Bedside tables and overhead lamps add to the amenity of this very comfortable and warm space.

Storage is also a strong feature in these cabins, with a large chest of drawers in the bedroom and generous storage accessed via a cupboard under the internal stairs. Inside is a large open-shelf unit, rail for hanging clothes and an area to store suitcases.

A full-size shower with awesome water pressure and plentiful hot water kept us very happy. Toiletries from French company L’Occitane en Provence are provided, with a continual supply of shampoo, conditioner and shower gel accessible via refillable pump packs on the wall.

A heated towel rail keeps the soft, white towels dry and fluffy too. Two four-drawer wicker units allow for all of your toiletries to be stored out-of-the-way and there’s also a hairdryer provided also.

All cabins include a television/DVD player, a safe (which is a fabulous idea) and are fully air-conditioned. Servicing is carried out on a daily basis with the hostesses checking in on the cabins several times a day to keep everything in your room looking exactly as it did on arrival.

Soft greys, white and exposed beams decorate the cabins on the Renaissance luxury hotel barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

It’s hard to believe this bathroom is on board a luxury barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

Modern bathroom in our cabin on board the Renaissance barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

The Saloon

As much as we loved our private hideaway downstairs, the upstairs deck was where all the action was, and unsurprisingly, where we spent most of our time. 

As the Renaissance made her way along the canal, we divided our time between the outside area and the indoor saloon. Both were equally wonderful and offered the chance to mix up the cruise. They also offer an opportunity for guests to spread out, read a little, listen to music, chat or drink at the bar. 

It was on the vibrant red leather lounges that we took a few minutes every day to glance at the New York Times or other magazines the crew provided or to read one of the many books found on board. 

At the bar, we perched on high bar stools, watching hostess Claire design incredible cocktails for us or Carla pour us yet another glass of France’s best sparkling. It was here that we engaged in lively conversations with both of them about their love of working on barges and their highly flexible and exciting travel lifestyles. 

Both from the south of England, they spend 26 weeks a year working on barges, dedicating their days to providing outstanding service for all of their guests.

Cherry red leather lounges invite guests to relax in the saloon aboard the Renaissance. Image © Kerri McConnel

The open bar provides 24/7 access to guests. Image © Kerri McConnel

The open bar provides 24/7 access to guests, tempting everyone with the finest of whiskies, vodka, gin and rum along with a vast range of liqueurs for the afternoon aperitif. We officially drank our way through about 20 wine labels over lunch and dinner, sampling some amazing local whites, reds and roses.

In the evening, we all joined together for dinner, seated around the indoor dining table, and ate and drank late into the night.

With plenty of large, clear windows, the best part of the saloon was that we could always see outside. With long summer twilights, the sun continued to provide light until at least 10.30 pm meaning we could enjoy seeing life on the canal whether we were inside or out.

Plenty of space to relax with a book or a newspaper in the saloon. Image © Kerri McConnel

The beautifully decorated table for meals on the Renaissance. Image © Kerri McConnel

The Outside Deck

Under the protection of a permanent roof, we sat around the large stone-topped table, usually with some kind of drink in our hand and often eating, contemplating the fortuitous situation we all found ourselves in. The French weather had turned on a treat for us and it was wonderful to sit outside and soak it all up.

The roof is an important feature and its value shouldn’t be underestimated. Whilst for us it kept us constantly protected from the sun, in times of poor weather, it will also ensure that your days or nights can still be enjoyed outside, instead of being confined to the indoors, as beautiful as they may be. It’s all about having options.

Several deck chairs occupy the upper deck and two smaller padded seats are nestled into the corner of each side of the barge.

The luxury doesn’t stop on the outside with a hot tub located at the bow. The thought of lying back with a glass of French bubbly in my hand whilst cruising had me super excited! It’s teasingly decadent but who am I to argue?

Approaching the locks were always a source of interest. Having seen how they operate on both barge trips, I still remain fascinated by the process and the art of manoeuvring them.

Unlike the Canal du Midi, where there were rental boats passing us constantly, here it was far quieter. When we did see another boat, however, especially a large barge, it provided us more entertainment as we watched how the captains moved the vessels to ensure they could pass side by side in the canal. No mean feat that’s for sure.

The deck is where guests enjoy drinks, relaxing and taking in the scenery. Image © Kerri McConnel

Services on Board

All cabins are fitted with sufficient power outlets running 220/240 volts, to be able to charge any of your equipment with ease. There are also several outlets in the common areas of the saloon. They are the standard European two-pin plug so remember to bring your adapters if necessary.

Free wifi is available onboard subject to local conditions. Cruising along the canals can put you into some rural areas where the 3G/4G network sometimes doesn’t exist.

If having a regular connection is important, consider adding international data to your own plan or hire a mobile hotspot device to use. We had one of these and found it useful to not be sharing the public wifi with everyone else.

Related: 5 Incredible Luxury Hotels that Should be on Your Bucket List

Enjoy the sun, the hot tub or simply the changing scenery on the deck. Image © Kerri McConnel

All food is sourced from carefully selected local vendors crafted by Chef Hannah for each gourmet meal. Image © Kerri McConnel

The Food and Wine

A constant chorus of “lunch/dinner is now served” seemed to permeate the air on an all too regular occasion. Indulging and experimenting with fantastic food is a significant part of this voyage and you will never find yourself wanting to snack in between meals. The quantity and quality of the food are exceptional. From smooth vanilla pannacotta to rich double chocolate tarts, soft, tender veal cooked sous-vide style to the most magnificent of Charolais beef, it was a veritable feast of French food.

Our days started with breakfast buffets and hot dishes cooked to order. Lunch buffets cooked with food fresh from the local markets were featured. Formal four-course lunch and dinners saw us combine slow food, slow eating with slow travel.

We lingered, and lingered some more over each meal. Mostly, we found ourselves sitting at the dining table for hours. Conversation flowed between all guests, and We savoured the flavours, washing it all down with a carefully selected local wine. There’s no need to hurry when you are on a trip of this nature.

All food is sourced from carefully selected local vendors, some of which we were able to meet at a local market when Chef Hannah took us to buy the produce for our lunch. Great care goes into providing seasonal produce, and as you would expect, the menu is heavily French-inspired.

We loved being able to go out into Hannah’s kitchen to chat to her about the food she was preparing, adding to our knowledge base a little more each time. There’s definitely a few dishes that we will attempt to make in our own kitchen.

Read more about the food on and off our Loire Valley barge cruise.

Related: The Ultimate Local’s Foodie Guide to Hong Kong

Riding alongside the barge. Image © Kerri McConnel

Loire Valley Barge Activities

Being on a barge doesn’t mean you stay on the barge. The daily activities add diversity to the cruise and are perhaps one of the aspects that many people who have not barged before don’t realise.

Many of the uninitiated that I have spoken to always offer up two comments usually. The first is that barge cruises are for the older tourist and secondly that it must get incredibly boring sitting around on a barge all day. Our experience, having now been on two barge holidays in France have shown us that couldn’t be further from the truth.

Barging is well set up for people of all ages, especially if a group of like-minded people book a charter.

If I am to be totally honest, I will admit that as the week wore on, we were so busy and always on the go that I could have easily swapped out a day of activities for just relaxing on the upper deck. I could have done this of course as all activities are totally voluntary and you can tag out at any time.

However, I also have a fear of missing out, so there was no way I wasn’t going to head out with Matthew to explore something new.

Over the course of the week, we visited three chateaux, a vineyard, churches, chocolate shops, local markets, military stables and a famous pottery factory. An air-conditioned vehicle transports us to and from these visits.

Even when you are on the barge, you can hop off at any of the locks and explore a local village, or simply walk along the towpath. Bicycles are also provided for this purpose. Getting back on is simply a matter of agreeing on the relevant lock with the captain and hopping back on.

Barge Holiday Packages

Booking a barge cruise on the Renaissance is fully inclusive of the following:

• Private transfer to and from the commencement point from Paris.
• All food and beverages onboard provided 24/7. The only exception here is personal requests for some vintage wines and/or champagnes which may be arranged prior for a specific charter.
• All daily excursions that are part of the general itinerary, including private transfers.
• Wifi.
• Use of bicycles.

The only other exceptions include events that you might wish to be involved in outside of the general itinerary eg. hot air balloon rides.

Tips are also not included. However, this is purely at the guest’s discretion.

Related: The Perfect Long Weekend Guide to Paris

The Renaissance fuses the ultimate elements of a bucket list France holiday. Image © Kerri McConnel

Book the Holiday of a Lifetime

A holiday on the Renaissance is a total sensory experience. Our eyes enjoy the beauty of the barge and all that she cruises in and around. The French countryside, especially that through the Upper Loire region offers up the timeless beauty of architecture, rolling green vineyards and country villages over and over again.

Our sense of fun, learning and enlightenment is married with the incredible places we visit and the experiences we undertake. We can’t help but live through the sights, tastes and smells of the incredible French food and wine that is integral to this journey.

All of these images and so many more are forever etched into the minds of all of those onboard. Whether this is a once in a lifetime dream holiday or the continuation of a barge holiday passion, be sure to keep the Renaissance in mind.

The Fit Traveller was a guest of the Renaissance, European Waterways and Barge Lady Cruises for this barge holiday in France. The opinions, words and images are authentically our own.

Barge Holidays in France

A Loire Valley Cruise on The Renaissance

Website | Check Availability

Kerri McConnel

Kerri McConnel is the owner of travel blog Beer and Croissants.

A world away from the frantic corporate life she once lead, Kerri now chases her travel dreams with her husband.

Often in a motorhome, they love seeking out unique travel experiences that always include great food and wine.

www.beerandcroissants.com/

Pat Bailey

Wake early to enjoy a perfectly peaceful morning at The Louvre Pyramid in Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

What to See in Paris in 4 Days

How to Get to Paris

• Paris may very well be one of the easiest places to get to in Europe, with two major airports (Charles de Gaulle is or Orly) and a few surrounding smaller ones. Use this tool to help plan the fastest route to and from the Paris airports to the city.
• Paris is also very accessible by train or bus from the rest of Europe.

Tucked away on a quiet street of the first arrondissement Hotel Therese Paris is a five-star, luxury hotel within walking distance of the top sights. Image © Pat Bailey

Where to Stay in Paris

Hotel Therese Paris

I arrived in Paris very happily wanting a slow-down after a whirlwind month of travel exploring Corsica and Italy. I checked in to Hotel Therese and the big easy began instantly.

This five-star, luxury property is perfectly situated in the first arrondissement and within walking distance to some of my very favourite spots to visit. 

It is tucked away on a quiet street so you have the best of both worlds: quiet time to relax and rest as well as proximity to the electric energy of the city within minutes.

“Little luxuries” is a phrase Hotel Therese uses to describe their approach to the intimate feel of their property, the staff, and the attention to detail given to each guest from the moment they arrive until they say “Au Revoir.”

It is the perfect place to land if you have just a little bit of time in Paris to explore, or if you are craving an intimately quiet refuge in the heart of the city of love.

A quiet moment overlooking the iconic Parisian rooftops at Hotel Therese, Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Hotel Therese Classic Room

My Mini Charm, 12m² Classic Room, with a fluffy queen-size bed and quintessential Paris view of rue Thérèse was perfection.

I opened both windows immediately and let the sounds of the city that I love to float in, and the window view was my breakfast spot the first morning I stayed.

Among the many special things about Hotel Therese was the afternoon tea every day in the lobby.

A variety of teas, coffee and pastries, candies, and other delectables are served, with an invitation to linger in the velvety space.

I also loved that I could borrow a scooter to take on my city adventures and I even ordered the in-room rowing machine one afternoon because I wanted to try it.

Book Hotel Therese

The perfectly charming Classic Room with modern and luxe furnishings and a beautiful view of the neighboring rooftops. Image © Pat Bailey

Delicious quintessential Paris breakfast at Hotel Therese, Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Stunning, fashion-forward design notes at Hotel Therese Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Order a rowing machine for a quick workout in the comfort of your room at Hotel Therese, Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Here are some other luxury Paris hotels we love when traveling as a couple and some of the best places to stay in Paris with kids.

What to do in Paris in 4 Days

Walk to See the City’s Iconic Sights

A very short distance from Hotel Therese is the beautifully bold and inspiring space of the Grand Palais, arrive early morning just before they open and have a coffee nearby then sneak in just as the gates open so that you have the entire space to yourself.

A beautiful statue of Molière points you in the right direction (Fountain Molière) and is a reminder of how beloved this comic genius is in Paris – as are many literary greats. 

Les Deux Plateaux or Colonnes de Buren located in the inner courtyard of the Palais Royal in Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

An early morning walk to the iconic Paris sights like the Arc de Triomphe is a must while in Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Making a bee-line from the Palais, crossing the grand Bonaparte, you can visit the Louvre in just minutes. An early morning walk earns you a courtyard with a rare view of the Louvre all to yourself.

From the Louvre in any direction, you can continue your walk to the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, or Arc de Triomphe, enjoying the quiet morning of a sleepy city full of night owls. 

Return to the Louvre for a nightcap at Café Marly, where you can enjoy a cocktail at one of the terrace tables overlooking the Louvre courtyard until 2 am.

Beat the crowds to get the best Instagram-worthy photo with the Eiffel Tower in Trocadero, Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Maison Sauvage in Saint Germain des Pres is the perfect early morning spot for breakfast and some people watching. Image © Pat Bailey

Start the Day in Saint Germain des Prés

One of my very first priorities each time I visit Paris is a walk directly to Saint Germain des Prés, where I have coffee nearly every morning at Maison Sauvage, a newish café with the perfect French breakfast of juis de oranj, croissant and espresso. 

Perfectly situated in the heart of the 6^th, Rue de Buci has some of my favourite little shops including a vintage shop where I lusted over a Prada maxi this summer, Carton bakery which bakes one of the best croissants in the city, a cute paperie with cards and pens and things, and TASCHEN bookstore which sells the most beautiful books I’ve ever seen. 

A full day can be spent in the 6^th district, one of the best places to people-watch and catch your breath after exploring the major landmarks nearby.

Grab the newspaper or a new book at Buci News, Saint Germain des Pres. Image © Pat Bailey

Join the hipster and fashion set in the gorgeous streets of Saint Germain des Pres, Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Worth a special trip is a visit to my very favourite bakery in all of Paris, and yes I know this is saying a lot. I love Poilâne for a handful of reasons, all having to do with love in my heart and in my tummy. 

I was introduced to this very local bakery by a Parisian and quickly became addicted to the signature shortbread cookies that are bagged and sold fresh every day. 

It was later that I connected with Apollonia who is the 3^rd generation of Poiláne bakers.

The heritage of Poilâne now rests on Apollonia’s shoulders and she manages five Paris locations and four locations outside of Paris. My favourite spot is the shop in Saint Germain des Prés.

Visit a Paris Beach

Unique to Paris in July and August are the Paris Plages which are created every summer along the Seine River. Temporary “beach clubs” are created, sand and all, with lively atmospheres and special events all month-long. 

This tradition began in 2002 and was created for the non-holidaying residents of Paris so that they could escape the heat for a mini holiday close by.

Visit the colourful suburb of Montmarte, Paris to mix with creatives and hipsters. Image © Pat Bailey

Coffee breaks and people watching are essentials during a summer long-weekend in Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Explore Montmarte and Le Marais

Two of my favourite parts of the city to visit outside of Saint Germain des Prés are Montmartre and Le Marais. I think because I live in San Francisco and I’ve become fond of the distinct neighbourhoods in my home city, with favourites there too, it is easy to slide into this feeling in Paris. I visit Montmartre when I feel like being inspired by art, or if I want to climb to the top of Sacre Coeur for a picnic lunch and a grand view of the city. 

What to do in Montmartre

The vintage shops in the Montmartre district and famous flea markets make this part of the city a must-see for me. 

My favourite vintage shop is Chinemachine which is tucked into a small street on the way to Sacre Coeur. 

I love to have coffee in the art district and watch painters paint. To get in the mood for your visit to this neighbourhood, watch Amélie and look for the landmarks in this classic French movie that made this area of Paris extra famous. 

You can even stop for lunch at Café des Deux Moulins which really exists, and it still looks exactly like it did in the movie. I love to sit outside at one of the tables on the street and people watch, this is a great place to have a crepe and coffee or a delicious salad.

Things to do in Le Marais

Le Marais, or Jewish district, is a foodie destination for me as well as bakeries and boutique shopping. The Holocaust Museum is in this neighbourhood, and it contains powerfully emotional historical records. Lines and lines of falafel eating people line the streets of the Marais on a typical summer day, and Chez Marianne is the place where I go every time to enjoy authentic Jewish food.  The falafel here is bar none but you can’t order it from the table, you have to stand in line with everyone else. I order the sampler plate with four or five choices so that I can try a little bit of everything. There are many bakeries in the Marais, including a Poilâne location, be sure to pop into a few if you like Jewish pastries.

A gorgeous sunny summer’s day at Notre Dame, Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

 

Hunt down some fresh holiday reading at Shakespeare and Company, Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Visit a famous Paris Church or Cemetary

There are many beautiful cathedrals and churches in Paris. St. Gervais-St-Protais Church in the Marais stands on one of the oldest medieval streets in Paris and houses the oldest organ in the city (1601).

Take a walk to Île de la Cité for dinner one night and find your way to Notre Dame Cathedral afterward. This beauty is magnificent during the day, but absolutely incredible by night. 

Have a coffee and people-watch in the courtyard by Le Madeleine. Sit on the bench opposite the Saint Sulpice Church and look at the fountain and façade in front of you which looks like a painting. 

Take the metro to Père Lachaise Cemetery on a day that you have time to wander through the biggest cemetery I have ever visited, it is 110 acres. 

If you happen to be in Paris on a rainy afternoon, put your boots on, grab an umbrella and visit this spot for a moody and dramatic Parisian adventure looking for famous headstones like Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison and Gertrude Stein.

Visit a Paris Book Shop

Speaking of writers, this is probably my most favourite thing about Paris: how beloved writers and writing is. I visit Shakespeare & Company every time I’m in Paris. It is the sister bookstore to City Lights in San Francisco.

I love the adjoining café which always has a healthy, daily vegetarian special, but what I love about Shakespeare & Company is the shop’s cozy interior with painted steps and inviting alcoves, and a back room upstairs where you are welcome to stay as long as you want to read, write and daydream. 

Crowds begin to gather at the Louvre, Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Cool off with a Spritz and a view of the Eiffel Tower. Image © Pat Bailey

Must-Visit Paris Museums 

Of course, no trip to Paris is complete without visiting some of the famous museums. When planning what to see in Paris in 4 days, prioritise one or two museum visits.

The first Sunday of every month is free admission day, so if your long-weekend visit falls at the beginning of the month, decide whether or not you want to go when everyone else is going and get to the doors well before opening. 

I have always loved visiting the Musée d’ Orsay, and the Picasso and Rodin museums.

If you are interested in catacombs, the underground catacombes museum in Paris is quite something. Be prepared to stay underground for about 30 minutes. It took me a few deep breaths to adjust to the idea but the experience was interesting and unique.

I have so many favourite works of art in Paris. Two that I love are the Chagall painting on the ceiling in the Paris Opera and the painted wall of poetry on rue Férou which has Rimbaud’s poem Le Bateau Ivre painted on it. 

Paris is a city oozing with art, you can find it everywhere you look.

What to Eat in Paris

There are so many delicious places to eat in Paris that I couldn’t possibly name them all and it’s impossible to try them all, but I do have a handful of favourites that I haven’t mentioned already that are definitely worth a visit.

• If you are looking for a traditional creperie, I highly recommend Broceliande located in the 9^th arrondissement, be sure to order a cider or two to go with your savoury crepe. 
• For a quintessential and highly coveted French dining experience go early to avoid a long line for a table at Le Comptoir or pop next door for their version of Le Comptoir on-the-go. 
• Another splurge and a treat I enjoyed my very first time to Paris over a decade ago is Joël Robuchon’s L’Atelier located in Hôtel Pont Royal. The chef’s creations are the most exquisite, and most delicious, works of art I have ever seen or tasted – it is a must-see when you visit Paris.
• I never miss a trip to a La Tarte Tropézienne shop when I’m in Paris, these tarts unique to France and created in Saint Tropez in 1955, are my very favourite. The light, airy, and fluffy pastry sandwiches an equally light custard filling, and the sandwich is sprinkled with coarse sugar on top. It’s impossible to have just one. 
• I love Café Vesuvio for pizza, and pasta that is nearly like what I’ve had in Italy, and equally delicious.
• Vesuvio is close to Café Mabillon where I like to enjoy an aperitif before or after dinner. Order a Campari and soda, otherwise known as a “Spritz,” and it will come with popcorn and pretzels, along with the greatest people watching.

Fat Tire Tours is a unique way to see Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

How to Stay Fit in Paris

Paris Bike Tour

It isn’t hard to stay active in Paris, it’s a walking city and this pastime is shared by many. 

If you feel like a two-wheeled adventure is calling you, Fat Tire Tours is a great bicycle touring company in Paris where you can take a day trip with them that begins at 10:30am and includes lunch in the Tuileries Gardens and a ride by many landmarks. 

The guides are happy to stop and take photos along the way; this is a great way to explore many parts of the city in one day.  

The beautiful light-filled yoga studio at Yoga Village Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Yoga in Paris

I attended a beautiful Vinyasa yoga class at Rasa Yoga Rive Gauche, which is where my teacher Rusty Wells teaches when he is visiting Paris.

I also attended a lovely Jivamukti Vinyasa class at Yoga Village that I loved.

Stop at one of the Famous Paris Parks

Of course, visiting any one of the beautiful parks in Paris is a must too. The French have perfected the art of fashionable lounging, and dare I say their own form of lagom. 

It is not unusual to see people of all ages and at all times of the day and week, with their shoes off and feet up lounging on the hundreds of green metal chairs found in the parks all over the city. 

Jardin des Tuileries and Jardin du Luxembourg are well-known, beautifully maintained, and easily accessible.

To mix with more locals, head for Parc des Buttes-Chaumont or Le Canal Saint-Martin for a picnic on Saturday or Sunday afternoon.

The Fit Traveller was a guest of Hotel Therese Paris during our stay. As always, the opinions, words and images are authentically our own.

A warm sunset glow lights up the Paris rooftops. Image © Pat Bailey

Pat kicks off her sandals at Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris. Image © Pat Bailey

Pat Russo

Pat Russo is a Mystic, Muse, and Spiritual Teacher guiding women into their hearts with a journey of softening. She is a published poet, a lover of hearts, and a forever student.

Feeling the impossibility of choosing between her two favorite cities, she considers San Francisco and Paris home.

www.patricia-russo.com/